10.10.10

Travel Thailand (Part 1): Intro to Thai Culture

Traveling to Thailand? Know before you go: the landscape, the culture & 30 tips for every day etiquette while you're traveling. Spare yourself the embarrassment of being a 'farang kee nok' (bird shit foreigner!)



Introducing Thailand:
Manhattan-esque city scrapers, tropical beaches, buzzing green jungles, meditation friendly temples, smiling monks, jumping live music clubs, forested mountains, rice plantations, river rafting, bamboo huts, majestic roaming elephants, motorbike traffic jams, screaming tuk-tuks, markets crammed with life and overall sensory overload...this and so much more is what awaits you. The country is in constant motion, and is evolving every day under the pressures of development and modernization.

And yet, after 700 years of independence the Kingdom of Thailand has deep rooted traditions the people remain firmly loyal to. These traditions and customs are fundamentally reinforced by the 3 pillars that make up Thai society: Buddhism (the national religion), the Monarchy & respect for elders.

Bangkok is the gateway... and the first impression is usually unpleasant. Stifling concrete, incomprehensible traffic and polluted air makes L.A. look like an amusement park. But the capital is the stronghold of the monarchy, the palace and all things royal. Some of the most majestic royal temples, built by the first kings of Thailand lay scattered throughout the city.

The Central Plains... are the most fertile areas where every day life surrounds ceremony and respect to Chao Phraya River, the goddess of water & the giver of life. Here are the ancient kingdom capitals of Ayutthaya and Sukothai, and today's agricultural heartland. Temple ruins and statue remains date back nearly 800 years, and the power and history behind the Kingdoms of Siam inspire respect and admiration.


Northern Thailand... has the history of the ancient Lanna Kingdom, with temples suspended in the mountains and dispersed in & between the old cities of Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai, dating back circa 1296 AD. The cooler climates from the mountaintops make a visit necessary in the warmest months (March to May). Elephant conservation projects like Elephant Nature Park stamp the map in the struggle for preservation of Asian Elephants.

Amidst these mountains also lay the isolated hill tribe villages; nomadic peoples who have maintained a way of life dating back nearly 2000 years. They have their own identity, language, dress and culture; originally traveling overland from China and Tibet they practice traditional mountain rice farming, agriculture and devout belief in animism-man's oldest belief that a soul or spirit exists in everything around us.

North East... takes you to the heart of Isaan: the least developed, most rural and the more authentic Thai experience if you're game. Water-buffalo riding is a sport here, and will give any rodeo a run for their money. The Mekong River cuts through the quaint town of Nong Khai, and this is the stepping point to Laos.

West...takes you straight to the border of Myanmar (Burma). To get there, you drive through the toes of the Himalayan mountains. Tourists seldom make the journey out here and foreigners are few and far between. The violent history of war, occupation, the Bridge of River Kwai and Hellfire Pass as a WW2 POW camp site should not be missed. Today, this remote region is quiet, overgrown with green and Sangkhlaburi, in my opinion, is home to absolute raw beauty. The mountains cut like dragon-teeth and the valleys fill with lakes, waterfalls, boat houses and a strong, determined locals trying to make a living beyond the war zone that is Burma.

Head South... and the beaches are the biggest attraction. Tropical islands, raw rainforests, dotted coconut palm and rubber plantations, florid coral reefs, limestone cliffs and caves, fishing villages, carved wooden boats, and peace loving Muslim communities offering a pride and tradition of their own including Batik handwoven crafts and cookery. Railey Beach, Koh Tao, Koh Yao Noi, Koh Lanta and 'Lost World' scenic jungles of Khao Sok National Park must not be overlooked.


Understand the Culture:

The 3 pillars of Thai society are Buddhism, the Monarchy and respect for elders. Every Thai person is taught from a young age to strictly follow certain social protocols, including unquestioned respect for elders, temple etiquette, and 'saving face.'

"Saving Face"... means to avoid confrontation and avoid embarrassment for all parties involved in any situation. This means you don't discuss negative topics, you don't express firm opinions or try to impose ideas, you remain humble and never boast about your title, you never ever raise your voice, and you always aim to please. Harmony and agreement in every facet of life is the stuff of gold.

"Sanuk"... literally translates to fun, and taken to heart in every job or task. If you're not having fun while you work hard, then what's the point? There's a sense of group playfulness in any work environment (Thais seldom work alone), from office tycoons to construction workers you'll always find co-workers flirting, teasing and mocking each other. Work environments always quickly become family environments too. "Sanuk sabai" also famously brings the name Thailand: the Land of Smiles.

"Mai pen rai"... translates roughly to 'no worries.' This is taken to the core of Buddhism and the idea of reincarnation, where every day holds the possibility of death, but 'no worries' because we'll always be re-born again. Nothing is this life is ever too serious to be concerned with to the point where "sanuk" is gone. Everything is transient.

Status... all relationships and their inter-involvement are dependent on factors like age, wealth, and position. Thai children are taught that first and foremost there is Buddha, the monk who showed the way to enlightenment and peace on earth. Next, their King is a descendant of Buddha, a living-godlike icon, worthy of the title considering all the good he has done for his people the past 60 odd years. After the king (and his extended royal family), the most important people are monks and novice monks, people in servitude of Buddha's teachings. After monks, and nuns, come elders and inherent respect for family.

The Thai greeting, the 'wai'... a small bow brings the palms of your hands together in a prayer like greeting also has its position relative to your body and face depending on this social rank. The King deserves a 'wai' above the crown of your head, a monk should receive your hands in between your eyebrows. Anyone older than you deserves a 'wai' with your fingers touching just under your nostrils, whereas children or younger siblings need only a clap of hands in front of your chest and small nod.

Thais and homosexuality...despite the traditional values and conservative natures of Thais in general, there is an open tolerance for gays and homosexuality that is unmatched anywhere else in the world. You may often see two men or women holding hands in public, but this usually denotes a friendship not a relationship since public displays of affection are not common. Ladyboys, transvestites, transgender, gays, tomboys, are all accepted without the stigma we find in Western culture. The reasons behind this are not really clear: maybe it's because of the peaceful nature in Buddhism, maybe it's because Thais in general are not very aggressive. Gay-bashing or violence against gays in not common at all.

TRAVEL THAILAND (PART 2): 30 Do's and Don'ts in Daily Etiquette

Have you traveled to Thailand before? Where was your favorite spot? What other interesting cultural differences did you experience?

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