25.10.10

You Can Save The World


Feeling Powerless To Save Our World?

I came across an interesting blogger today, a woman attempting to live her life entirely plastic-free. Beth at "Fake Plastic Fish" worries (rightly so) about plastics filling our oceans, environments being permanently destroyed by toxic chemicals and waste, as well as the personal health effects from our own daily use.

I read her "Plastic- Free Living Guide" and couldn't help but scoff the first time I saw her suggestions. Some of them are outrageous and seemingly impossible, especially where I am in Asia today. And then, I caught myself...I was being pessimistic, negative, accepting powerlessness and giving up before I even tried to give her ideas a chance.

Powerlessness is a tricky word. It often is confused with fatalism "what will be will be." But in fact, powerlessness is defined as a state of being in which we feel we lack personal control over certain situations or events that NEGATIVELY affect our lives, our lifestyles and our goals.

It is this feeling of powerlessness as individuals that limits our efforts and contributions towards creating a better world; sometimes we feel we don't have enough money, not enough time, or not enough of a voice to really make changes.
Problems in the world today are dire, never ending, that make us all feel helpless: war, world hunger, human trafficking, violence, poverty, animal abuse, discrimination, loss of environment and natural resources...we all know that we need to consume less, donate time and energy to others in need, but most of us lack 'the push' to action. This is feeling powerless as an individual.

Our apathy forces government and agencies to think for us and to provide solutions managed and distributed on a large scale; sometimes it works sometimes it doesn't. And yet, we forget that revolutions and memorable moments of change in human history are from stories of individuals, not always governments or mobs. Heroes were people, just like you and me, who one day decide to start a fight.

OK, I'm not saying Beth is a hero. I am saying, I've looked twice at her blog now and I feel inspired. She's just trying to start a revolution, to drastically resist the norms of today...she's fighting against Plastic, a fight that seems impossible to overcome and yet there she goes. I for one, admire it.

Powerlessness from a Buddhist perspective:

Last year, as a last ditch effort to protect the forests in Northern Thailand, I set out with a group of 15 volunteers to tie sacred Buddhist scarves around the trunks of Teak trees. The scarves were essentially a scare tactic: if you cut down a tree that's been blessed by a monk, you'll be unlucky in this life and the ones after.

This, the simplest of solutions obviously works since all throughout Thailand green forests reflect oranges, reds and deep browns from forest walking monks protecting nature where and when they can.

This got me thinking about Buddhism and conservation actually. In Buddhism, powerlessness doesn't really translate. The only kind of power that truly exists is power over ourselves. We can not control those around us, nor can we change the course of nature, we can only control the way we view ourselves within it.

Buddha said "All that we are is the result of what we have thought. The mind is everything. What we think we become." Our thoughts are the source of our happiness, pain, desires and eventually habits. Thoughts become words, words become actions, then actions become habits (for better or worse.) This is what I thought of when I caught myself being pessimistic. My own thoughts are the only things I can completely control, and I should better spend the energy to choose to think positively.

The point is, positive thinking. Control your thoughts and don't let pessimism and negativity force you into inaction. I alone act. I alone use less plastic. I alone use less water. I alone treat all sentient beings with love.

'I' can quickly become 'we', as individuals unknowingly become part of a community. Somewhere out there 'you' are using less water, 'you' use less plastic too. Even if we feel alone, acting as an individual, somewhere out there someone is trying to do exactly the same thing. Have faith that even if you act alone, you may not be.

While I may not be able to use a stainless steel ice cube tray, or make my own condiments, or seek out sanitary pads made from organic cotton in Asia, I will take some suggestions to heart and know that you will too. Individuals, be inspired, and you may find yourself unknowingly saving the world.

"Thousands of candles can be lit from a single candle, and the life of the candle will not be shortened. Happiness never decreases by being shared."- Buddha


--Thanks to my friend Madeleine for sharing this documentary with me: "No Impact Man" is about Colin Beavan, one man trying to live 1 year completely 'green' giving new meaning to the idea Practice What You Preach.

Mental Patients Sent To Backpacker Hostels

A couple months ago I wrote about backpacking through hostels in Australia, Hostel Life: Tips for making the most of your hostel experience...
The inspiration for this article came from my own personal hellish experience in St. Kilda, Melbourne.

Mere weeks after publishing that blog entry, I heard on the radio there was an investigation the Australian media was looking into; mental patients were being sent to tourist backpacker accommodations. I had a little giggle, and forgot about it since I never heard of it again...until I came across this article today: turns out, it was confirmed!

In Canberra, ACT Australia homeless people recovering from mental illnesses are being sent to backpacker accommodations as a sort of 'remedial housing.'

The government claims they're better off in hostels, rather than in-patient hospital facilities where space is limited.

How is that possible?! Let's think security and stability...I would think that a recovering mental patient would require both, and none of these are really available in hostels. Loud noises, disruptive behavior, thieves, fighting, crowds...I'm talking about the backpackers here, not the patients!

I honestly think that hostels are like college dorms, and 20 year old backpackers on a drinking binge are a major threat to any kind of patient's recovery. And on the other hand, if I was unknowingly sharing a facility with mental patients I would have been outraged! Would this not pose a threat to us, the tourists?

My last roommate was a sleepwalker who had a tendency to leave the gas stove on all night...that was dangerous enough.

There's a larger issue at hand here, the lack of adequate housing and care for mental patients. They seem to be marginalized from society worldwide, and while hospital treatment may not be the best for long-term care, more needs to be done to create proper facilities and homes supplied with trained staff to provide care and safety. This whole mess just seems irresponsible on behalf of the Government and Australian Health Services.


Have you ever heard of anything like this before? Do you agree, or disagree?

16.10.10

Sleeping With Elephants: Chiang Mai, Thailand

Overnight trip to Elephant Nature Park

...sleeping with giants, cycling through rice paddies, and planting trees with the local children = the perfect weekend.

I once said I had a love affair with Thailand. Elephant Nature Park is a big part of that love affair... maybe obsession is the word I'm looking for.

The sanctuary is home to 32 elephants, all of them rescued from an abusive tourism industry. They roam free everyday, unchained and happy to spend their days bathing in the river, grazing, toppling fruit trees and chasing the dogs around the park. They don't perform tricks, they don't paint, they don't dance, they don't beg for money in the streets of Bangkok or Chiang Mai, and they don't carry tourists on their backs anymore...they just simply exist as nature intended, as gentle giants.

The State of Asian Elephants Today...

Asian Elephants are struggling to survive. No one knows exactly how many are left in the wild, but here in Thailand the numbers are in the low hundreds. People say that in 30 years or so, they'll be wiped out from the wild completely because of loss of habitat, cities expanding, poaching and the black market ivory trade that still persists throughout Asia.

Let's put one thing in perspective. The number of wild elephants in Thailand are in the low hundreds. The number of domesticated elephants working in the tourism industry are in the thousands.
Thai people revere elephants. Elephants are the vehicles of kings, they were tanks in times of war during the ancient kingdoms of Siam, they're spiritual guides, they're demi-gods and symbols of luck and grace so important to the foundation of Thai history and culture. You can't go a city block anywhere without coming across an elephant in one form or another, and even worse it's harder to go one night in Chiang Mai or Bangkok and not come across baby elephants begging in the city streets for food and money.

How did this happen? As most atrocities do...lack of education and awareness.

Asian Elephants have a tradition of being domesticated. This has existed for nearly 2,000 years already. They were used in battles, they were used in royal ceremonies, more recently used as loggers in the money making Teak industry, then finally today used as entertainment. When the government banned logging in the 1980's, thousands of elephants and their owners were out of work and dying in the jungles. So the idea of elephant tourism was embraced to initially help them...until now, it's just spiraled out of control.

Tourists come to Thailand with the big idea of riding on the back of an elephant in a green jungle. What they don't realize is everything that happens behind the scenes. The process of training an elephant happens at a very young age. Around 3 or 4 years, babies are separated from their mothers and placed in violent crushes: sleep deprivation, torture, cutting, bashing, and gouging from metal hooks are common place in a training process that can last months.

The theory is barbaric: break your elephant at the youngest age possible and teach him to fear man. It is the fear and constant reminder of the trauma from this training process that allows tourists to ride elephants today.
The more elaborate the tricks an elephant is taught, like circus performance, the longer the training process and the more violence involved.

What's happening now in Thailand, is that every year more and more tourists demand elephant entertainment. More efforts are being put into building this elephant tourism industry, and less energy focused on restoring the dying wild populations. The cycle of suffering needs to stop. Tourists need to make educated choices, people relying on elephants for work and livelihood need to be given access to a new set of skills and work, and elephants need to stay off the city streets and remain in the forest where they belong.

What Elephant Nature Park represents, is a new hope for the future generations of Asian elephants. Domestic elephants who have been rescued from abusive owners and street begging are brought here to the sanctuary to live out their lives in peace. The only interaction with tourists allowed are feeding times and bathing times. Tourists directly bring joy to elephants, and not the other way around. The point, is to spend a day or a week in the presence of elephants acting as they would naturally in the wild.

Elephant Nature Park is my heaven on earth. It's a wildlife rescue project, a community development arm and a source of inspiration for all of us around it. The founder, Lek, has her hands in everything: working with elephants, stray dogs and wildlife rescued from illegal trafficking; reaching out and hiring from within Burmese refugee camps; tree planting and forestry development to restore the jungle; creating jobs for local farmers since 32 elephants demand a lot of food sources; sending volunteers into local communities to help with funding and construction of every day needs like water tanks, temples, bridges, and roads...she can do anything. One day at her park and you'll be overwhelmed with the amount of good work being done, I guarantee it.

Overnight at the Park....

One of the first things I did when I got back to Thailand this month, was visit the park. For anyone with a couple days to kill in Chiang Mai, I highly recommend staying overnight. Day visits are great too, but overnight allows you to see a lot more of what rural life in Thailand is really all about.

The park highlights include washing and bathing with the elephants twice a day, as well as up close encounters with feeding every day. There are babies that are constantly playing and getting into trouble, so keep your cameras loaded for some awesome photography.
The accommodations are nice, and the food is mind-blowing. Your night's stay will be more than comfortable. An extra full day at the park will allow you the time for a bicycle tour of the area if you're game.


Ride through the forest, across the Mae Taeng river, through fields of rice paddies and flowering tress, and hike the steps up to the local forest temple with a guide from the park more than happy to teach you the basics of Buddhism and temple history.

And there's always something going on at the park that needs a few extra hands. When I was there it was my dear friend Lek's (the founder) birthday. In honor of her, the local community and children worked hand in hand with volunteers to plant 500 trees in and around the park as her yearly "Green Forest Day" program.



If you have a couple days, stay overnight. If you're limited, the one day visit will be just as awesome. Prices and booking information can be found at the Elephant Nature Foundation website here....

If you have more time, consider volunteering for the week. Read about my experiences volunteering here...(Prices and booking for volunteering is also available at the Elephant Nature Foundation website.)

Asian Elephants are not the only ones suffering: gibbons, monkeys, bears, tigers...so many animals need your help in Asia...volunteer your time and energy into making a difference next time you travel.

Video: Moon Bears in Laos & Vietnam need help too!

more info here...Animals Asia.org

For a list of volunteer organizations I've worked with here in Thailand, scroll to the end of my post here 'Thailand: Paradise or Not?'...

If you have shared similar experiences with wildlife conservation or community development projects around the world, please share them and let us know where we can lend a hand next!


Zipline Adventure Chiang Mai

Jungle Flight Zipline company is based in Chiang Mai and offers an amazing adventure package nearby Doi Saket mountains. It's a couple hours' drive out of the city to get to the forest, but once you're there the jungle takes over. Up close enounter with nature and a low impact adventure activity makes the heart sing!

This company was fun, professional, with great safety standards and highly recommended for a 'get away' day from the city of Chiang Mai. (One recommendation: bring your own water bottle with a carabiner clip, this will cut down on the plastic bottles wasted on tour.)

May and I inspected the company together and had 5 hours of perfect weather, dizzying heights, and laughs all around...especially when May got stuck on the 300 meter zip and had to get rescued!








One day in Chiang Mai with Queen & Stef

A Driving Tour of Chiang Mai: One day in the life of Queen & Stef...

Last night the girls (me, Queen and May) did a bar hopping welcome back tour of Chiang Mai: bourbon & cokes at the Thai rock joint Warm Up; tequila shots with the hip hop d.j. at Zoe in Yellow; a quick beer watching the lady boy show at Spicy; then whiskey & sodas jamming with the live band at Discovery...

It was a great night out, but moving around the next day was a bit painful...so join us, on a typical 'day off' in Chiang Mai city.

We cruise through the old city running errands, passing by beautiful temples Wat Chedi Luang and Wat Phra Singh. We grab lunch off a local noodle shop, before stopping in at the ISV office in Nimmenhamin to catch up on work and emails.








A Bad Day...

The price you pay for traveling the world, is loneliness.

My sister in law gave birth to 2 new beautiful baby girls the other day, and the only connection I have with them is a few snippets of photos and emails. You can't hold photos, you can't hug emails.

My brother, the father, is also overseas. A pilot in the U.S. Navy, he was not able to fly home to be with his wife in the delivery room. He won't get to see them until December this year, and I only have the tiniest inkling of the frustration he must be feeling.

The difference is, I chose to go away. My brother didn't have that luxury. The military says he goes, and he does, with his back straight and a warm smirk that goes annoyingly well with his casual goodbyes.

If you ask how they cope, more comes through the silent pauses...pain, sadness, longing these are all left unsaid with the strength and determination to push through it and even ignore it.

Despite that, here I am, half a world away, living with my choice. Is this being selfish? It feels like it...why can't I be in two places at once?

There's been a lot of issues in my family recently: people passing, people getting sick, people fighting...There's also been a lot of joy: holidays, gatherings, birthdays and births...and I haven't been there for any of it.

I know I'm living my life, doing exactly what I want to do. But sometimes, I feel like I'm failing my family. My best friend Queenie is about to quit her job and move back home, because her Mom needs her to. Would I be able to do that if ever needed?

It's not just family...friends too. These days they are few and far between continents and oceans, and every year I seem to lose more than gain. So many weddings I've missed, and so many troubles I haven't been there for.

How can I have it all? How can I live my life so far away from everyone that I love and not be forgotten? It goes both ways too... How can I stay over here, and not forget what's there?
"Finding happiness is like finding yourself. You don't find happiness, you make happiness. You choose happiness. Self-actualization is a process of discovering who you are, who you want to be and paving the way to happiness by doing what brings YOU the most meaning and contentment to your life over the long run."
I'm trying to figure this all out. What does it mean to be completely happy? I'm happy here, with the lifestyle and the work abroad. But there's still a huge void, and I don't know how to reconnect the two. If I went back home, I'd still have the void...

Sorry...today's just a bad day. Way too much time alone with my thoughts. I'm switching the music to Bob Marley's '3 little birds' then going to have a few drinks with my mates.


15.10.10

Travel Thailand (Part 2): 30 Do's and Don'ts Daily Etiquette

Daily Etiquette in Thailand, 30 Do's and Don'ts:

1.) The monarchy and religion are interconnected, so guard your tongue and behavior with absolute respect at all times.

2.) Any image or icon of the King & royal family are treasured, and anything with the King's face should never be dropped or stepped on (including money.)

3.) Criticizing the royal family is illegal, and will serve you a lifetime or 2 of a prison sentence.

4.) Whenever the National and/or Royal anthem are played, pay respect to the image of the King by standing straight, still and remaining silent. Everything stops during the anthems. This happens in city streets all over usually at 8 am and again at 6 pm. This happens also in the cinemas before any film is played.

5.) When visiting temples dress conservatively, always. Some temples in Bangkok will deny you entry if you're not dressed appropriately, other temples in the countryside won't. Part of the 'saving face' concept means that even if you're causing offence or embarrassment to yourself or the locals, Thai people will never inform you of your wrong-doing. Cover the shoulders, wear knee-length or longer, and always take off your shoes before entering any temple buildings.

6.) Buddha images and revered objects include statues, hand prints or footprints, jewelry or icons once worn or associated with Buddha & amulets. These are always lifted off the ground, on altars. The main Buddha image is always in the main hall of a temple, where people come to pray and pay respect to Buddha. Always sit in front of him, keep your head below his to show respect. Keep your feet tucked under or behind you away from the Buddha image, since your feet (the dirtiest part of your body) pointed at anyone is considered rude.

7.) If you take pictures of Buddha, do so from a seated position, and never pose in front of one. Never touch any of the Buddha images, and certainly don't climb up on one.

8.) Women never touch a monk, (a special, time consuming cleansing ceremony is required if ever a monk is accidentally brushed up upon.) If women would like to make an offering to a monk, it should be placed within reach of the monk , or on a special cloth and placed in the alms 'offering' bowl that's part of their daily attire.

9.) Never step on the threshold of a building (the raised wooden step in the doorway). In temples and homes as well, a spirit guards the doorway of every building, and stepping on the threshold is the ultimate disrespect. Step over it.

10.) Do make a small donation after visiting temples. It's good karma for you and a good gesture of faith for the locals.

11.) Feet are the lowest, dirtiest part of your body. Never put your feet up on a chair or bench, and never point your feet at people. If for some reason you do need to climb on a chair or seat, take your shoes off first.


12.) Always take your shoes off before entering a home, since traditionally Thais eat, sleep and entertain on the floor. To keep the floor clean, there is usually a washing bucket nearby the house entrance to wash your feet in before entering.

13.) Some businesses or guesthouses also request 'shoes off', your cue will be whether there's a rack of shoes left of the entrance or not.

14.) Never step over people, and if being fed or napping on a mat on the floor take your shoes off first. If eating or sitting in a group setting, be conscious of your feet placement, keep them tucked away 'temple style.'

15.) Never use your feet as extra hands: don't close doors with feet, don't point with your toes & don't stomp on something if it blows away.


16.) Never touch the heads of others (even if in a playful manner like ruffling hair.) This is an insult.

17.) Don't sit on pillows meant for heads.


18.) Don't touch a Thai person's amulet necklace, the Buddha image is considered highly revered and should only be handled by the owner.


19.) If someone 'wais' a greeting to you, always bow and 'wai' back unless it's from a small child where a small nod will suffice.


20.) "Sawat dee kaa" if you're female, "Sawat dee kup" if you're male is 'hello' and always welcomed with a smile.


21.) Public displays of affection are uncomfortable in any culture. PDA in cities outside of big cities like Bangkok and Chiang Mai are rude and inappropriate, especially for the older generations.


22.) Don't shake hands with the left hand, the left hand is unofficially known as 'the wiping hand.

23.) Nude sunbathing is never OK, considering that most of Thailand's 5% Muslim population lives in the Southern islands.

24.) Walking around towns shirtless or in skimpy singlets is also inappropriate. (*Something I saw today: Walking in a mall wearing a sarong as a dress is NOT OK!*) I know it's hot, but suck it up. Light loose layers (cotton tunics are best) and shower 2 or 3 times a day, just as the locals do.


25.) Don't throw toilet paper down any western or squat toilet, use the bin nearby to dispose. (Use the hose first to clean, the paper should just be for drying.)


26.) Think consciously of supporting children selling flowers or food on the streets. Where do they come from? What's their story?


27.) Do Not Ride an Elephant! The treatment of elephants in the tourism industry is cruel and abusive, visitElephant Nature Park and support a conservation project instead. You'll have more fun here, I guarantee it.


28.) Ping Pong shows and sex shows are usually women who have been illegally trafficked and enslaved by mob bosses...please treat these shows as forced prostitution.

29.) If visiting the hill tribe minority groups, please respect their animist beliefs. Do not take photos without asking permission first, many of the elders believe they will lose their soul to a flash in a camera.

30.) If visiting villages with totem-like poles, altars or sacred objects dangling from trees these are religious symbols that can not be touched. Ask first before touching or posing for photos.

Last Minute Extra Survival Tips!!


Visas: If arriving by plane you get 30 days upon arrival automatically for most countries, if you cross a land border you only get 15 days. You can only apply for a 60 day tourist visa outside of Thailand. Multiple entries, and multipes visas are available for free right now, enquire at your local consulate.

Health: Take serious precaution against mosquitoes. Dengue Fever and Malaria are mosquito borne viruses that are life-threatening. I've had Dengue Fever once already and it nearly killed me...I wish that upon no one! Purchase health/travel insurance, I'm a personal fan of STA Travel's plan. Update your standard immunizations: Hepatitis A & B, Tetanus boosters and Typhoid. Yellow Fever is not required. Don't drink the tap water (ice served in restos OK), invest in a water purifier or bottled water. Watch your food and make sure meat is always properly cooked before consuming.

Safety: Most crimes and murders in Thailand are 'crimes of passion.' So be careful who you mess around with! The Police have a foreigner friendly emergency number 1155 (similar to our 911) use any public phone for free and the operators speak English.


Currency: Access to cash is best. Debit machines are widely available at 7-11s and markets. Credit cards are also accepted, but not widely used outside of stores or boutique shops. Currency exchange locations and banks are widely available, as well as money transfers like Western Union should an emergency arise. Tipping is not common, but leaving behind small change leftover from a paid bill is a polite gesture.


Drugs: Trafficking of drugs is not taken lightly. Life prison sentences are paid out, without bail without a trial jury and the conditions inside of a Thai jail are less than desired with physical abuse and violence common. Some trafficking offences even warrant the death penalty, only pardoned by the King. Don't be an idiot here.


Scams: Don't be a sucker for fake gems and jewelry. General rule, don't accept offers of free shopping or sightseeing from strangers, commissions are being made on your behalf. Gem scams in Bangkok have become notorious.


TRAVEL THAILAND (PART 1): Intro to Thai Culture


Any more tips about etiquette and travel friendly advice I'm missing? Please share!

For further reading, especially about Health and Pre-Travel Planning I recommend "Lonely Planet's Thailand" issue and "Lonely Planet's Healthy Travel- Asia and India."

10.10.10

Travel Thailand (Part 1): Intro to Thai Culture

Traveling to Thailand? Know before you go: the landscape, the culture & 30 tips for every day etiquette while you're traveling. Spare yourself the embarrassment of being a 'farang kee nok' (bird shit foreigner!)



Introducing Thailand:
Manhattan-esque city scrapers, tropical beaches, buzzing green jungles, meditation friendly temples, smiling monks, jumping live music clubs, forested mountains, rice plantations, river rafting, bamboo huts, majestic roaming elephants, motorbike traffic jams, screaming tuk-tuks, markets crammed with life and overall sensory overload...this and so much more is what awaits you. The country is in constant motion, and is evolving every day under the pressures of development and modernization.

And yet, after 700 years of independence the Kingdom of Thailand has deep rooted traditions the people remain firmly loyal to. These traditions and customs are fundamentally reinforced by the 3 pillars that make up Thai society: Buddhism (the national religion), the Monarchy & respect for elders.

Bangkok is the gateway... and the first impression is usually unpleasant. Stifling concrete, incomprehensible traffic and polluted air makes L.A. look like an amusement park. But the capital is the stronghold of the monarchy, the palace and all things royal. Some of the most majestic royal temples, built by the first kings of Thailand lay scattered throughout the city.

The Central Plains... are the most fertile areas where every day life surrounds ceremony and respect to Chao Phraya River, the goddess of water & the giver of life. Here are the ancient kingdom capitals of Ayutthaya and Sukothai, and today's agricultural heartland. Temple ruins and statue remains date back nearly 800 years, and the power and history behind the Kingdoms of Siam inspire respect and admiration.


Northern Thailand... has the history of the ancient Lanna Kingdom, with temples suspended in the mountains and dispersed in & between the old cities of Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai, dating back circa 1296 AD. The cooler climates from the mountaintops make a visit necessary in the warmest months (March to May). Elephant conservation projects like Elephant Nature Park stamp the map in the struggle for preservation of Asian Elephants.

Amidst these mountains also lay the isolated hill tribe villages; nomadic peoples who have maintained a way of life dating back nearly 2000 years. They have their own identity, language, dress and culture; originally traveling overland from China and Tibet they practice traditional mountain rice farming, agriculture and devout belief in animism-man's oldest belief that a soul or spirit exists in everything around us.

North East... takes you to the heart of Isaan: the least developed, most rural and the more authentic Thai experience if you're game. Water-buffalo riding is a sport here, and will give any rodeo a run for their money. The Mekong River cuts through the quaint town of Nong Khai, and this is the stepping point to Laos.

West...takes you straight to the border of Myanmar (Burma). To get there, you drive through the toes of the Himalayan mountains. Tourists seldom make the journey out here and foreigners are few and far between. The violent history of war, occupation, the Bridge of River Kwai and Hellfire Pass as a WW2 POW camp site should not be missed. Today, this remote region is quiet, overgrown with green and Sangkhlaburi, in my opinion, is home to absolute raw beauty. The mountains cut like dragon-teeth and the valleys fill with lakes, waterfalls, boat houses and a strong, determined locals trying to make a living beyond the war zone that is Burma.

Head South... and the beaches are the biggest attraction. Tropical islands, raw rainforests, dotted coconut palm and rubber plantations, florid coral reefs, limestone cliffs and caves, fishing villages, carved wooden boats, and peace loving Muslim communities offering a pride and tradition of their own including Batik handwoven crafts and cookery. Railey Beach, Koh Tao, Koh Yao Noi, Koh Lanta and 'Lost World' scenic jungles of Khao Sok National Park must not be overlooked.


Understand the Culture:

The 3 pillars of Thai society are Buddhism, the Monarchy and respect for elders. Every Thai person is taught from a young age to strictly follow certain social protocols, including unquestioned respect for elders, temple etiquette, and 'saving face.'

"Saving Face"... means to avoid confrontation and avoid embarrassment for all parties involved in any situation. This means you don't discuss negative topics, you don't express firm opinions or try to impose ideas, you remain humble and never boast about your title, you never ever raise your voice, and you always aim to please. Harmony and agreement in every facet of life is the stuff of gold.

"Sanuk"... literally translates to fun, and taken to heart in every job or task. If you're not having fun while you work hard, then what's the point? There's a sense of group playfulness in any work environment (Thais seldom work alone), from office tycoons to construction workers you'll always find co-workers flirting, teasing and mocking each other. Work environments always quickly become family environments too. "Sanuk sabai" also famously brings the name Thailand: the Land of Smiles.

"Mai pen rai"... translates roughly to 'no worries.' This is taken to the core of Buddhism and the idea of reincarnation, where every day holds the possibility of death, but 'no worries' because we'll always be re-born again. Nothing is this life is ever too serious to be concerned with to the point where "sanuk" is gone. Everything is transient.

Status... all relationships and their inter-involvement are dependent on factors like age, wealth, and position. Thai children are taught that first and foremost there is Buddha, the monk who showed the way to enlightenment and peace on earth. Next, their King is a descendant of Buddha, a living-godlike icon, worthy of the title considering all the good he has done for his people the past 60 odd years. After the king (and his extended royal family), the most important people are monks and novice monks, people in servitude of Buddha's teachings. After monks, and nuns, come elders and inherent respect for family.

The Thai greeting, the 'wai'... a small bow brings the palms of your hands together in a prayer like greeting also has its position relative to your body and face depending on this social rank. The King deserves a 'wai' above the crown of your head, a monk should receive your hands in between your eyebrows. Anyone older than you deserves a 'wai' with your fingers touching just under your nostrils, whereas children or younger siblings need only a clap of hands in front of your chest and small nod.

Thais and homosexuality...despite the traditional values and conservative natures of Thais in general, there is an open tolerance for gays and homosexuality that is unmatched anywhere else in the world. You may often see two men or women holding hands in public, but this usually denotes a friendship not a relationship since public displays of affection are not common. Ladyboys, transvestites, transgender, gays, tomboys, are all accepted without the stigma we find in Western culture. The reasons behind this are not really clear: maybe it's because of the peaceful nature in Buddhism, maybe it's because Thais in general are not very aggressive. Gay-bashing or violence against gays in not common at all.

TRAVEL THAILAND (PART 2): 30 Do's and Don'ts in Daily Etiquette

Have you traveled to Thailand before? Where was your favorite spot? What other interesting cultural differences did you experience?

8.10.10

Thailand: Paradise or Not?

Finally, after nearly a year away...the return to Thailand.

"I see my path, but I don't know where it leads. Not knowing where I'm going is what inspires me to travel it." -Rosalia de Castro.

I am emotionally involved with Thailand. This love affair has lasted years, with my first visit in 2006. In 4 years, living and working in Southeast Asia has taken me to the most incredibly highs, yet I've also suffered the most painful lows.

At first glance, this country is near paradise perfect: pristine jungle, exotic wildlife, smiling and friendly locals, towering limestone cliffs, remote and isolated islands, emerald oceans with vibrant corals and reefs, mountains that seem neverending, temples full of life with incense and music, monks quietly blending into traffic, sweet and spicy curries, coconut concoctions, and a pace of life that feels 100 years behind what we're used to.





Scratch the surface though, and you'll find something more in us. I've had the glamourous job, the lifestyle of envy, but such is life that nothing is ever as perfect as it seems. Thailand has brought me heart-breaking failed relationships, near death experiences, moments of insanity questioning who I am and what purpose life in this world has. I've also borne witness to a country of suffering, human poverty and enslavement; a country in need that most tourists are blind to.

Most of what I know, the life lessons learned, I have learned here.

I have trekked for days in the mountains to remote villages, I have kayaked from island to island in search of the perfect squid, I have discovered a profound respect for the power of coconut milk and hot chilis to any dish, I have spent enough time in temples with monks to understand that within each of us lies enough compassion & love to end human suffering if only we would listen to our hearts more often.







I have also worked hard to rescue and rehabilitate animals enslaved to the tourism industry (elephants, bears, gibbons), I have fought against the wildlife trade, against poachers, violent and abusive pet owners. I've sweat blood and tears to build houses, bridges, temples and understanding between the wealthy and those in remote, poverty stricken villages. I have walked hand in hand with Burmese refugees, writing down the names of those lost in the war that is tearing Burma apart; the war that the rest of the world seems to be completely blind to. I have opened my heart and arms to sick babies, whose HIV & AIDS ridden mothers were too poor or sick to take care of anymore. I have battled to free women from the sex slave industry, and I have struggled to teach tourists that ping pong shows & prostitutes are only fuel to the fire in the trafficking of innocent women and children.

I have traveled the world, come and gone, lost focus, only to realize that this is my true home now. I have made the decision to stay, as long as there is meaningful work for me to continue, I will fight the good fight. I'm afraid though. My family is so far away, and it is inevitable that physical distance creates emotional distance too. But this life, is the only I have to live, and I pray they understand.

My heart is full here in Thailand. I have taken so much, and I have given back as much as I could in return. You can too... Next time you visit, volunteer.

Head to the Northern mountains and volunteer with community development organizations in the remote hill tribe communities. Work with organizations in the fight for wildlife conservation. Discover homestays and the hard labor-intensive lifestyle in a Muslim fishing village. Head to the border, and lend a hand in the fight against the Burmese Military Regime. Teach English, educate the youth about human trafficking and the dangers of neglecting your health. The possibilities are endless...

A list of organizations I have worked with to consider:
  • Elephant Nature Park Foundation: Learn about the inhumane treatment of elephants trapped in the tourism industry. This sanctuary rescues and rehabilitates Asian elephants from Thailand and Burma. There is real need to get their Surin Project off the ground, travel to the quiet Eastern region tourists seldom ever visit.
  • Khom Loy Development Foundation: Work with ethnic minority groups in Northern Thailand to find sustainable ways of dealing with social deprivation and poverty. Projects focus on agriculture, water/sanitation, education, and handicrafts/income generation.
  • Mae Kok Foundation: Works strictly with children of minority ethnic groups, rescued from the human trafficking industry and rehabilitated from drug and opium addiction. (The website's a bit rough, but contact details are available in 'profile'.)
  • Wild Animal Rescue Foundation: Southern Thailand, works closely with sea turtle projects, Gibbon and Macaque monkey rehabiliation projects, marine rescue, and local community outreach programs.
  • Bring the Elephant Home: Antoinette was first inspired by the heart breaking reality of street begging elephants in the cities of Bangkok and Chiang Mai. Now she has a foundation in the hopes of stimulating animal friendly eco-tourism and getting elephants off the streets and into sanctuaries.
  • Lanna Dog Rescue: Rescue and rehabilitate street dogs in and around the city of Chiang Mai.
  • Baan Unrak: Sangklaburi is a remote village on the Burmese border. A Neo-humanist foundation supported orphanage, with a focus on children and mothers in need of rescue from the sex slave industry, the war in Burma and human trafficking.
  • DEPDC Development and Education Programme for Daughters and Communities: Fight against child prostitution in Northern Thailand.
  • Burma Volunteer Program: teach English and report writing & documentation of human rights abuses in Burma today. Fight for a democratic and free Burma.
  • Thai Red Cross Society: Volunteer for medical and healthcare services, disaster relief support, and community programs.
  • Ko Yao Children's Community Center: Volunteer and live within Muslim fishing villages on the quiet island of Koh Yao Noi. Teach at local schools and promote environmental awareness, study with organic farming and sustainable fishing projects.


This is just a small sample of what's available out there...be inspired to be the change.


For more information about the war in Burma, please visit friends at Burma Matters Now...


Elephant Nature Park teaches local children about elephants & conservation...

12 Kilos or Bust!

Hi Guys,

I was tired of people confusing me with the *other* Globetrotting Gypsy online travel blog...so a change of name was in order.

12 kilos or bust refers to my trusty backpack. No matter where I'm going, 12 kilos represents the max: the maximum weight my back can carry & the maximum amount of clothes and necessities I'll ever need.
"If you wish to travel far and fast, travel light. Take off all your envies, jealousies, unforgiveness, selfishness, and fears."
– Glenn Clark

So travel with 12 kilos or bust!


(PS: Thank you Nadia @ Littlemebigyou for the inspiration...)


20 Tips for 'Green Travel'


Green Tourism, Eco-Tourism, Responsible Tourism, Sustainable Tourism, Cultural Tourism, Nature-Based Tourism...these buzz words are becoming more popular worldwide.

The ideas behind these buzz words all vary slightly when it comes to answering these key questions:
How can we travel sustainably for future generations to enjoy the same experience?
How can we care for the environment and help the local people in a positive way?

We're a new generation of travelers, more aware of our environmental impact and more keen to experience remote destinations in their 'natural' setting.

And yet...it seems that without proper government & international regulation, any company or hotel or travel agent can slap the word 'eco-friendly' on their product and attempt to lure unsuspecting tourists in.

So, how do we know what 'green' travel really is?
  • Making educated choices that minimize negative environmental impact: choose destinations or tours that operate with a philosophy of conservation and education, apply 'Leave No Trace' principles, try to minimize energy consumption, be aware of where resources are coming from and where the waste goes at the end of the day.
  • Respecting the locals: be polite and minimizing negative cultural generalizations (i.e. the English drink too much, Americans are ignorant, the French are stuck up, etc...)
  • Learning the local customs and culture: learn the language, dress appropriately (look to the locals for cues), read up on the religions, holy places and local customs (are there social taboos, like the placement of feet in Asia, to be aware of?)
  • Responsible purchasing: support local businesses, buy local products directly from artisans (avoid souvenirs made in China), avoid souvenirs made from animal products, corals or shells, eat local foods supporting local farmers, hire local tour guides.

  • Health & hygiene: pay attention to the chemicals used in your water bottles, shampoos or laundry detergents, use biodegradable soaps when available. Awareness will help to minimize toxic waste in the region you're visiting.
Here's a list of 'Travel Green' tips to remember next time you're on the go:
  1. Before you go, unplug everything in your house. Many electronics use a high amount of 'vampire energy', meaning they consume energy even when on stand-by or plugged in (TVs and microwaves for example.)

  2. Use public transportation in country whenever possible.

  3. Don't eat at international chains like Starbucks or McDonald's, explore and experiment in local markets and eateries.

  4. Use rechargeable gadgets, avoid single-use or disposable products (i.e. batteries, disposable hand wipes)

  5. Don't throw away electronics when they malfunction. Batteries contain toxic materials that need to be recycled properly when you return home.
  6. Travel with a stainless steel water bottle and refill as you go, since many developing countries lack adequate recycling infrastructure.

  7. Brochures and maps provided by hotels or travel agents can be returned if kept in good condition.

  8. Travel with a tote bag, something of durable fabric to avoid using plastic.

  9. Use your own soap and washing liquids, since the disposable ones in hotels are wasteful.

  10. Turn off all electric devices when leaving your hotel room.

  11. If your hotel does not recycle or dispose of rubbish responsible, write a comment in the 'comments card' since hotel reps and managers do read them.

  12. "Do Not Disturb": tell the hotel staff you don't need your room cleaned every day. This saves energy from vacuuming and reduces toxic waste from using chemical cleaners. Cut down on water waste by re-using towels and linens.

  13. Know your carbon footprint, and make a financial donation to help reduce the greenhouse gases while you're away. Use Sustainable Tourism International's Carbon Calculator and help support projects investing in wind energy, tree planting, and many more examples here.

  14. Keep the window closed during a daytime flight, this reduces the energy needed to keep the plane cool.
  15. Choose a biodegradable sunscreen, one that's reef friendly and won't bleach the corals.
  16. Keep to the hiking trails and stay off the buds and plants. (At high altitudes native flora is slow-growing and can take years to properly regenerate.)

  17. Never feed the wildlife, and avoid adventure operators who offer up-close and personal encounters with wildlife that are not in the field of conservation, internationally recognized or reputable.

  18. Don't support the wildlife trade, avoid buying products made from threatened or endangered wildlife. Buyer Beware and WWF's Souvenir Guide are great resource for research into the area you're traveling to.

  19. Stay in home stays or small guesthouses when available, this will allow you more intimate interaction with the locals and support small family businesses.

  20. Volunteer while you're abroad. There's no better way to interact and learn from the local culture and customs, and your work will be a direct contribution to something positive--whether you're interested in community development, wildlife conservation, or environmental care, you'll find millions of volunteer organizations eager to have you. (Some example resources: Woofing organic farming, International Student Volunteers, Projects Abroad, Neohumanism Volunteering.)

Resources to continue reading up on 'Green Travel'...

World Wildlife Foundation: for travel tips check out their travel blog; information about conservation projects worldwide.

ABC News 'Green Ideas'

Go Travel Green: inspiration, trip recommendations, and tips for the eco-conscious traveler.

Sustainable Travel International