17.9.13

Almost French

Sarah Turnbull might be writing about a different country, but her words ring true for me too, as I attempt to carve out a new life for me and my husband here in Thailand! 

"The trail of lime trees outside our building is still a public loo. …where else are they supposed to go to the toilet in a city where public toilets are about as common as UFO sightings?” (pp.281-82)” 
― Sarah TurnbullAlmost French: Love and a New Life in Paris

Here garbage debris is hard to keep at bay, or on shore! We're living on the southern most tip of a peninsula, an island if you will, since it is completely cut off from the mainland by dense forest/jungle and is only accessible by boat. Tropical paradise, yes! But when the garbage pick up only comes once every two days (by boat!) in a community that houses hundreds of locals and hosts hundreds of visiting tourists, literally coming in waves....well, it becomes a problem. A lack of garbage bins and proper disposal units for tourists poses a serious threat to our health; and the same could be said for public toilets! Squat toilets, if not regularly hosed down become quite smelly and quickly! Squat toilets for the public, and clean ones at that...well that is a wondrous find indeed! Behind our shop is a mangrove forest, and my Mom recently learned to her horror that it is indeed a public urinal...but hey at least it's washed out to sea!

Side note: Is it really OK to pee in the ocean? Read more What's Another Drop in the Ocean?

It is a bitter-sweet thing, knowing two cultures. Once you leave your birthplace nothing is ever the same.” 

That ship sailed for me years ago....most people think the biggest barrier is the language, and since my Thai is pretty simple that does pose a challenge from time to time...however I find that we can mostly understand each other without words, through the use of visual and bodily language. You learn to get creative! Bitter-sweet? Maybe. There are days when I find Thai people WAY too relaxed in their business dealings...everything can be laughed off, which makes me feel stressed out and frustrated when dealing with corruption or faulty construction workers. But that's just the culture, the passive culture, which admits that trouble comes daily regardless of what you do to prevent it. On the one hand I hope adopting this relaxed culture allows me to grow into an even more happy person, and yet on the other hand it makes me want to scream like a raging bitch when I feel like I'm the only one who take anything seriously....my cross to bear :) Bitter-sweet indeed.

"Such is the nature of an expatriate life. Stripped of romance, perhaps that's what being an expat is all about: a sense of not wholly belonging. [...] The insider-outsider dichotomy gives life a degree of tension. Not of a needling, negative variety but rather a keep-on-your-toes sort of tension that can plunge or peak with sudden rushes of love or anger. Learning to recognise and interpret cultural behaviour is a vital step forward for expats anywhere, but it doesn't mean that you grow to appreciate all the differences.” 


True, very true. But falling in love with a local certainly does help this adjustment. And while there are many differences in Thai culture that I may not agree with or understand, I accept that first and foremost I am a visitor in this country, and just because my husband is Thai does not mean I also will become Thai. I will always be an expat, a foreigner, an outsider living on the inside....and that is OK. Because the life of an expat, and all the struggles and challenges that follow when trying to 'fit in' is the life I chose for myself, a long time ago before Tik ever came into the picture....and I am excited to see how much more trouble comes our way, and how many more challenges we will face as a team....no longer solo, no longer alone, but supporting each other. 


16.9.13

Expat Strife & Bad Reputations in Thailand

I’ve been doing some research and I have discovered that the expat life is predominantly a male-driven life style; typically single, white, senior men (ages 50+) living out their retirement overseas. Expat communities crowd Southeast Asia and can be found in every major city and hot spot, tourist destination. In most parts of Asia you can spend less than $6 USD a day on food and rent a comfy furnished apartment for less than $150 USD a month, utilities included….so it’s not hard to guess why so many expats from wealthy regions (USA, UK, and Europe) choose to settle down in cheaper countries like Thailand.

The immigration laws here make it very difficult for foreigners to stay long-term in Thailand, and with good reason. Expats, in particular senior white men, have developed very bad reputations in Thailand. Sex tourism and prostitution is a black market trade that, sadly, flourishes in this country based on its popular demand from wealthy clients such as those expats mentioned above. Please note: I have met many good and decent expats in their senior years, and these are generalizations that certainly do not apply to everyone. Aside from black market sex, it is not uncommon for expats to open and work in businesses illegally in Thailand and exploit their positions of wealth.

 Unfortunately, the surest way to spot an expat is to find a foreigner “farang” middle aged man walking arm in arm with a young Thai woman. I have only on rare occasions met mixed race couples of the same age; it is almost always a foreigner man 20 years old taking a young bride, typically from the Isaan region bordering Thailand and Laos.

Don’t believe me? Look online! Google love and relationships in Thailand and you’ll find forums and websites dedicated to the hot topic of an older ‘farang’ looking for a hot young wife, and in response forums and blogs dedicated to warn these foreigner men from the conniving charms of local Thai women who are purely after their money and assets. (I’m sorry, but if you’re a senior citizen and a young 20 year old bar girl tells you she loves you…you’d be stupid to think she wasn’t looking for a way out!)

The whole thing makes me sick and angry most times…and here in the South of Thailand it’s happening more in the open than I’ve seen anywhere else! There’s a cycle of exploitation happening here: women being objectified, men being suckered, people getting stupid/angry/and violent from situations involving way too much alcohol, an all in all bad reputations are being formed for expats across SE Asia!

Certain generalizations should be stopped, even if they have been in place for more than 100 years.... 

“You're an expatriate. You've lost touch with the soil. You get precious. Fake European standards have ruined you. You drink yourself to death. You become obsessed with sex. You spend all your time talking, not working. You are an expatriate, see? You hang around cafes.” 
― Ernest HemingwayThe Sun Also Rises

Legal Marriage in Thailand....DONE!

In case you didn't know....Tik and I are legally married!

The process was quick and painless on the Thai front! We simply walked into the local government head office, and without even waiting in line signed our documents and paid the $1.50 service fee for notarizing the license.

Mom and Dad were there also, and while it wasn't a ceremonial wedding like the one we had in Ranong, it was certainly another big step we took together in the presence of my parents.

My parents were also introduced as Farida's parents. When I married Tik I adopted a new nickname, a family name for the community here as well as Tik's immediate family. Most people address me as Farida these days, not Stefanie. I think the name is beautiful so I am happy to take it!

While Mom and Dad were visiting I did my best to keep them entertained: lunch at local fishery islands nearby Krabi; visits to the emerald pools and natural hot springs; treks through national parks and caves; and lots of travel time on the local long tail boats to and from Railay Beach. Some days were rainy, most days were sunny, and Mom and Dad had a lot of relaxed downtime....because quite frankly when you're living on an island, that's all there is to do!  And despite Dad's worries of staying so long in a Muslim community, we were able to find plenty of grog for him.

 We also spent some time in Bangkok as well, exploring the water way taxis off the Chayo Praya River; navigating the streets of Chinatown and zipping in and out of the CBD via Bangkok's swanky BTS and MRT metro line.

I'm hoping Mom and Dad can make it out again someday soon, because Tik absolutely loved playing host to them! He thought my parents were so sweet and cool since the very first day he met them, and well...that's what everyone wants to hear about 'the in-laws!'

For those of you who are my Facebook friends, you can see the complete photo album online.

This blog is about to change, dramatically, in terms of content. I might consider changing the name to something like….The Happy Misadventures of Expat Life…or, An Expat Guide for Little Women…what do you think?

Stay tuned! 

Sawasdee, 
Stefanie (or Farida)