"Thousands of candles can be lit from a single candle, and the life of the candle will not be shortened. Happiness never decreases by being shared."- Buddha
Hello! My name is Stefanie and I live in Thailand. I am recently married to a Thai national and am currently managing my husband's rock climbing business. I have fulfilled my greatest dreams abroad, and currently live in Paradise: also known as Railay Beach! This blog shares stories, advice, anecdotes and hard-learned lessons from my years abroad.
25.10.10
You Can Save The World
Mental Patients Sent To Backpacker Hostels
16.10.10
Sleeping With Elephants: Chiang Mai, Thailand
If you have a couple days, stay overnight. If you're limited, the one day visit will be just as awesome. Prices and booking information can be found at the Elephant Nature Foundation website here....
Zipline Adventure Chiang Mai
Jungle Flight Zipline company is based in Chiang Mai and offers an amazing adventure package nearby Doi Saket mountains. It's a couple hours' drive out of the city to get to the forest, but once you're there the jungle takes over. Up close enounter with nature and a low impact adventure activity makes the heart sing!
This company was fun, professional, with great safety standards and highly recommended for a 'get away' day from the city of Chiang Mai. (One recommendation: bring your own water bottle with a carabiner clip, this will cut down on the plastic bottles wasted on tour.)
May and I inspected the company together and had 5 hours of perfect weather, dizzying heights, and laughs all around...especially when May got stuck on the 300 meter zip and had to get rescued!
One day in Chiang Mai with Queen & Stef
A Driving Tour of Chiang Mai: One day in the life of Queen & Stef...
Last night the girls (me, Queen and May) did a bar hopping welcome back tour of Chiang Mai: bourbon & cokes at the Thai rock joint Warm Up; tequila shots with the hip hop d.j. at Zoe in Yellow; a quick beer watching the lady boy show at Spicy; then whiskey & sodas jamming with the live band at Discovery...
It was a great night out, but moving around the next day was a bit painful...so join us, on a typical 'day off' in Chiang Mai city.
We cruise through the old city running errands, passing by beautiful temples Wat Chedi Luang and Wat Phra Singh. We grab lunch off a local noodle shop, before stopping in at the ISV office in Nimmenhamin to catch up on work and emails.
A Bad Day...
My brother, the father, is also overseas. A pilot in the U.S. Navy, he was not able to fly home to be with his wife in the delivery room. He won't get to see them until December this year, and I only have the tiniest inkling of the frustration he must be feeling.
The difference is, I chose to go away. My brother didn't have that luxury. The military says he goes, and he does, with his back straight and a warm smirk that goes annoyingly well with his casual goodbyes.
"Finding happiness is like finding yourself. You don't find happiness, you make happiness. You choose happiness. Self-actualization is a process of discovering who you are, who you want to be and paving the way to happiness by doing what brings YOU the most meaning and contentment to your life over the long run."
15.10.10
Travel Thailand (Part 2): 30 Do's and Don'ts Daily Etiquette
1.) The monarchy and religion are interconnected, so guard your tongue and behavior with absolute respect at all times.
3.) Criticizing the royal family is illegal, and will serve you a lifetime or 2 of a prison sentence.
4.) Whenever the National and/or Royal anthem are played, pay respect to the image of the King by standing straight, still and remaining silent. Everything stops during the anthems. This happens in city streets all over usually at 8 am and again at 6 pm. This happens also in the cinemas before any film is played.
5.) When visiting temples dress conservatively, always. Some temples in Bangkok will deny you entry if you're not dressed appropriately, other temples in the countryside won't. Part of the 'saving face' concept means that even if you're causing offence or embarrassment to yourself or the locals, Thai people will never inform you of your wrong-doing. Cover the shoulders, wear knee-length or longer, and always take off your shoes before entering any temple buildings.
6.) Buddha images and revered objects include statues, hand prints or footprints, jewelry or icons once worn or associated with Buddha & amulets. These are always lifted off the ground, on altars. The main Buddha image is always in the main hall of a temple, where people come to pray and pay respect to Buddha. Always sit in front of him, keep your head below his to show respect. Keep your feet tucked under or behind you away from the Buddha image, since your feet (the dirtiest part of your body) pointed at anyone is considered rude.
7.) If you take pictures of Buddha, do so from a seated position, and never pose in front of one. Never touch any of the Buddha images, and certainly don't climb up on one.
8.) Women never touch a monk, (a special, time consuming cleansing ceremony is required if ever a monk is accidentally brushed up upon.) If women would like to make an offering to a monk, it should be placed within reach of the monk , or on a special cloth and placed in the alms 'offering' bowl that's part of their daily attire.
9.) Never step on the threshold of a building (the raised wooden step in the doorway). In temples and homes as well, a spirit guards the doorway of every building, and stepping on the threshold is the ultimate disrespect. Step over it.
10.) Do make a small donation after visiting temples. It's good karma for you and a good gesture of faith for the locals.
11.) Feet are the lowest, dirtiest part of your body. Never put your feet up on a chair or bench, and never point your feet at people. If for some reason you do need to climb on a chair or seat, take your shoes off first.
12.) Always take your shoes off before entering a home, since traditionally Thais eat, sleep and entertain on the floor. To keep the floor clean, there is usually a washing bucket nearby the house entrance to wash your feet in before entering.
13.) Some businesses or guesthouses also request 'shoes off', your cue will be whether there's a rack of shoes left of the entrance or not.
15.) Never use your feet as extra hands: don't close doors with feet, don't point with your toes & don't stomp on something if it blows away.
16.) Never touch the heads of others (even if in a playful manner like ruffling hair.) This is an insult.
17.) Don't sit on pillows meant for heads.
18.) Don't touch a Thai person's amulet necklace, the Buddha image is considered highly revered and should only be handled by the owner.
19.) If someone 'wais' a greeting to you, always bow and 'wai' back unless it's from a small child where a small nod will suffice.
20.) "Sawat dee kaa" if you're female, "Sawat dee kup" if you're male is 'hello' and always welcomed with a smile.
21.) Public displays of affection are uncomfortable in any culture. PDA in cities outside of big cities like Bangkok and Chiang Mai are rude and inappropriate, especially for the older generations.
22.) Don't shake hands with the left hand, the left hand is unofficially known as 'the wiping hand.
23.) Nude sunbathing is never OK, considering that most of Thailand's 5% Muslim population lives in the Southern islands.
24.) Walking around towns shirtless or in skimpy singlets is also inappropriate. (*Something I saw today: Walking in a mall wearing a sarong as a dress is NOT OK!*) I know it's hot, but suck it up. Light loose layers (cotton tunics are best) and shower 2 or 3 times a day, just as the locals do.
25.) Don't throw toilet paper down any western or squat toilet, use the bin nearby to dispose. (Use the hose first to clean, the paper should just be for drying.)
26.) Think consciously of supporting children selling flowers or food on the streets. Where do they come from? What's their story?
27.) Do Not Ride an Elephant! The treatment of elephants in the tourism industry is cruel and abusive, visitElephant Nature Park and support a conservation project instead. You'll have more fun here, I guarantee it.
28.) Ping Pong shows and sex shows are usually women who have been illegally trafficked and enslaved by mob bosses...please treat these shows as forced prostitution.
30.) If visiting villages with totem-like poles, altars or sacred objects dangling from trees these are religious symbols that can not be touched. Ask first before touching or posing for photos.
Last Minute Extra Survival Tips!!
Visas: If arriving by plane you get 30 days upon arrival automatically for most countries, if you cross a land border you only get 15 days. You can only apply for a 60 day tourist visa outside of Thailand. Multiple entries, and multipes visas are available for free right now, enquire at your local consulate.
Health: Take serious precaution against mosquitoes. Dengue Fever and Malaria are mosquito borne viruses that are life-threatening. I've had Dengue Fever once already and it nearly killed me...I wish that upon no one! Purchase health/travel insurance, I'm a personal fan of STA Travel's plan. Update your standard immunizations: Hepatitis A & B, Tetanus boosters and Typhoid. Yellow Fever is not required. Don't drink the tap water (ice served in restos OK), invest in a water purifier or bottled water. Watch your food and make sure meat is always properly cooked before consuming.
Safety: Most crimes and murders in Thailand are 'crimes of passion.' So be careful who you mess around with! The Police have a foreigner friendly emergency number 1155 (similar to our 911) use any public phone for free and the operators speak English.
Currency: Access to cash is best. Debit machines are widely available at 7-11s and markets. Credit cards are also accepted, but not widely used outside of stores or boutique shops. Currency exchange locations and banks are widely available, as well as money transfers like Western Union should an emergency arise. Tipping is not common, but leaving behind small change leftover from a paid bill is a polite gesture.
Drugs: Trafficking of drugs is not taken lightly. Life prison sentences are paid out, without bail without a trial jury and the conditions inside of a Thai jail are less than desired with physical abuse and violence common. Some trafficking offences even warrant the death penalty, only pardoned by the King. Don't be an idiot here.
Scams: Don't be a sucker for fake gems and jewelry. General rule, don't accept offers of free shopping or sightseeing from strangers, commissions are being made on your behalf. Gem scams in Bangkok have become notorious.
TRAVEL THAILAND (PART 1): Intro to Thai Culture
Any more tips about etiquette and travel friendly advice I'm missing? Please share!
For further reading, especially about Health and Pre-Travel Planning I recommend "Lonely Planet's Thailand" issue and "Lonely Planet's Healthy Travel- Asia and India."
10.10.10
Travel Thailand (Part 1): Intro to Thai Culture
And yet, after 700 years of independence the Kingdom of Thailand has deep rooted traditions the people remain firmly loyal to. These traditions and customs are fundamentally reinforced by the 3 pillars that make up Thai society: Buddhism (the national religion), the Monarchy & respect for elders.
Bangkok is the gateway... and the first impression is usually unpleasant. Stifling concrete, incomprehensible traffic and polluted air makes L.A. look like an amusement park. But the capital is the stronghold of the monarchy, the palace and all things royal. Some of the most majestic royal temples, built by the first kings of Thailand lay scattered throughout the city.
The Central Plains... are the most fertile areas where every day life surrounds ceremony and respect to Chao Phraya River, the goddess of water & the giver of life. Here are the ancient kingdom capitals of Ayutthaya and Sukothai, and today's agricultural heartland. Temple ruins and statue remains date back nearly 800 years, and the power and history behind the Kingdoms of Siam inspire respect and admiration.
Amidst these mountains also lay the isolated hill tribe villages; nomadic peoples who have maintained a way of life dating back nearly 2000 years. They have their own identity, language, dress and culture; originally traveling overland from China and Tibet they practice traditional mountain rice farming, agriculture and devout belief in animism-man's oldest belief that a soul or spirit exists in everything around us.
North East... takes you to the heart of Isaan: the least developed, most rural and the more authentic Thai experience if you're game. Water-buffalo riding is a sport here, and will give any rodeo a run for their money. The Mekong River cuts through the quaint town of Nong Khai, and this is the stepping point to Laos.
West...takes you straight to the border of Myanmar (Burma). To get there, you drive through the toes of the Himalayan mountains. Tourists seldom make the journey out here and foreigners are few and far between. The violent history of war, occupation, the Bridge of River Kwai and Hellfire Pass as a WW2 POW camp site should not be missed. Today, this remote region is quiet, overgrown with green and Sangkhlaburi, in my opinion, is home to absolute raw beauty. The mountains cut like dragon-teeth and the valleys fill with lakes, waterfalls, boat houses and a strong, determined locals trying to make a living beyond the war zone that is Burma.
Head South... and the beaches are the biggest attraction. Tropical islands, raw rainforests, dotted coconut palm and rubber plantations, florid coral reefs, limestone cliffs and caves, fishing villages, carved wooden boats, and peace loving Muslim communities offering a pride and tradition of their own including Batik handwoven crafts and cookery. Railey Beach, Koh Tao, Koh Yao Noi, Koh Lanta and 'Lost World' scenic jungles of Khao Sok National Park must not be overlooked.
Understand the Culture:
The 3 pillars of Thai society are Buddhism, the Monarchy and respect for elders. Every Thai person is taught from a young age to strictly follow certain social protocols, including unquestioned respect for elders, temple etiquette, and 'saving face.'
"Saving Face"... means to avoid confrontation and avoid embarrassment for all parties involved in any situation. This means you don't discuss negative topics, you don't express firm opinions or try to impose ideas, you remain humble and never boast about your title, you never ever raise your voice, and you always aim to please. Harmony and agreement in every facet of life is the stuff of gold.
"Sanuk"... literally translates to fun, and taken to heart in every job or task. If you're not having fun while you work hard, then what's the point? There's a sense of group playfulness in any work environment (Thais seldom work alone), from office tycoons to construction workers you'll always find co-workers flirting, teasing and mocking each other. Work environments always quickly become family environments too. "Sanuk sabai" also famously brings the name Thailand: the Land of Smiles.
"Mai pen rai"... translates roughly to 'no worries.' This is taken to the core of Buddhism and the idea of reincarnation, where every day holds the possibility of death, but 'no worries' because we'll always be re-born again. Nothing is this life is ever too serious to be concerned with to the point where "sanuk" is gone. Everything is transient.
Status... all relationships and their inter-involvement are dependent on factors like age, wealth, and position. Thai children are taught that first and foremost there is Buddha, the monk who showed the way to enlightenment and peace on earth. Next, their King is a descendant of Buddha, a living-godlike icon, worthy of the title considering all the good he has done for his people the past 60 odd years. After the king (and his extended royal family), the most important people are monks and novice monks, people in servitude of Buddha's teachings. After monks, and nuns, come elders and inherent respect for family.
The Thai greeting, the 'wai'... a small bow brings the palms of your hands together in a prayer like greeting also has its position relative to your body and face depending on this social rank. The King deserves a 'wai' above the crown of your head, a monk should receive your hands in between your eyebrows. Anyone older than you deserves a 'wai' with your fingers touching just under your nostrils, whereas children or younger siblings need only a clap of hands in front of your chest and small nod.TRAVEL THAILAND (PART 2): 30 Do's and Don'ts in Daily Etiquette
Have you traveled to Thailand before? Where was your favorite spot? What other interesting cultural differences did you experience?
8.10.10
Thailand: Paradise or Not?
"I see my path, but I don't know where it leads. Not knowing where I'm going is what inspires me to travel it." -Rosalia de Castro.
I am emotionally involved with Thailand. This love affair has lasted years, with my first visit in 2006. In 4 years, living and working in Southeast Asia has taken me to the most incredibly highs, yet I've also suffered the most painful lows.
At first glance, this country is near paradise perfect: pristine jungle, exotic wildlife, smiling and friendly locals, towering limestone cliffs, remote and isolated islands, emerald oceans with vibrant corals and reefs, mountains that seem neverending, temples full of life with incense and music, monks quietly blending into traffic, sweet and spicy curries, coconut concoctions, and a pace of life that feels 100 years behind what we're used to.
Scratch the surface though, and you'll find something more in us. I've had the glamourous job, the lifestyle of envy, but such is life that nothing is ever as perfect as it seems. Thailand has brought me heart-breaking failed relationships, near death experiences, moments of insanity questioning who I am and what purpose life in this world has. I've also borne witness to a country of suffering, human poverty and enslavement; a country in need that most tourists are blind to.
Most of what I know, the life lessons learned, I have learned here.
I have trekked for days in the mountains to remote villages, I have kayaked from island to island in search of the perfect squid, I have discovered a profound respect for the power of coconut milk and hot chilis to any dish, I have spent enough time in temples with monks to understand that within each of us lies enough compassion & love to end human suffering if only we would listen to our hearts more often.
I have also worked hard to rescue and rehabilitate animals enslaved to the tourism industry (elephants, bears, gibbons), I have fought against the wildlife trade, against poachers, violent and abusive pet owners. I've sweat blood and tears to build houses, bridges, temples and understanding between the wealthy and those in remote, poverty stricken villages. I have walked hand in hand with Burmese refugees, writing down the names of those lost in the war that is tearing Burma apart; the war that the rest of the world seems to be completely blind to. I have opened my heart and arms to sick babies, whose HIV & AIDS ridden mothers were too poor or sick to take care of anymore. I have battled to free women from the sex slave industry, and I have struggled to teach tourists that ping pong shows & prostitutes are only fuel to the fire in the trafficking of innocent women and children.
I have traveled the world, come and gone, lost focus, only to realize that this is my true home now. I have made the decision to stay, as long as there is meaningful work for me to continue, I will fight the good fight. I'm afraid though. My family is so far away, and it is inevitable that physical distance creates emotional distance too. But this life, is the only I have to live, and I pray they understand.
My heart is full here in Thailand. I have taken so much, and I have given back as much as I could in return. You can too... Next time you visit, volunteer.
Head to the Northern mountains and volunteer with community development organizations in the remote hill tribe communities. Work with organizations in the fight for wildlife conservation. Discover homestays and the hard labor-intensive lifestyle in a Muslim fishing village. Head to the border, and lend a hand in the fight against the Burmese Military Regime. Teach English, educate the youth about human trafficking and the dangers of neglecting your health. The possibilities are endless...
A list of organizations I have worked with to consider:
- Elephant Nature Park Foundation: Learn about the inhumane treatment of elephants trapped in the tourism industry. This sanctuary rescues and rehabilitates Asian elephants from Thailand and Burma. There is real need to get their Surin Project off the ground, travel to the quiet Eastern region tourists seldom ever visit.
- Khom Loy Development Foundation: Work with ethnic minority groups in Northern Thailand to find sustainable ways of dealing with social deprivation and poverty. Projects focus on agriculture, water/sanitation, education, and handicrafts/income generation.
- Mae Kok Foundation: Works strictly with children of minority ethnic groups, rescued from the human trafficking industry and rehabilitated from drug and opium addiction. (The website's a bit rough, but contact details are available in 'profile'.)
- Wild Animal Rescue Foundation: Southern Thailand, works closely with sea turtle projects, Gibbon and Macaque monkey rehabiliation projects, marine rescue, and local community outreach programs.
- Bring the Elephant Home: Antoinette was first inspired by the heart breaking reality of street begging elephants in the cities of Bangkok and Chiang Mai. Now she has a foundation in the hopes of stimulating animal friendly eco-tourism and getting elephants off the streets and into sanctuaries.
- Lanna Dog Rescue: Rescue and rehabilitate street dogs in and around the city of Chiang Mai.
- Baan Unrak: Sangklaburi is a remote village on the Burmese border. A Neo-humanist foundation supported orphanage, with a focus on children and mothers in need of rescue from the sex slave industry, the war in Burma and human trafficking.
- DEPDC Development and Education Programme for Daughters and Communities: Fight against child prostitution in Northern Thailand.
- Burma Volunteer Program: teach English and report writing & documentation of human rights abuses in Burma today. Fight for a democratic and free Burma.
- Thai Red Cross Society: Volunteer for medical and healthcare services, disaster relief support, and community programs.
- Ko Yao Children's Community Center: Volunteer and live within Muslim fishing villages on the quiet island of Koh Yao Noi. Teach at local schools and promote environmental awareness, study with organic farming and sustainable fishing projects.
This is just a small sample of what's available out there...be inspired to be the change.
For more information about the war in Burma, please visit friends at Burma Matters Now...
12 Kilos or Bust!
"If you wish to travel far and fast, travel light. Take off all your envies, jealousies, unforgiveness, selfishness, and fears."– Glenn Clark
20 Tips for 'Green Travel'
Green Tourism, Eco-Tourism, Responsible Tourism, Sustainable Tourism, Cultural Tourism, Nature-Based Tourism...these buzz words are becoming more popular worldwide.
The ideas behind these buzz words all vary slightly when it comes to answering these key questions:
How can we travel sustainably for future generations to enjoy the same experience?
How can we care for the environment and help the local people in a positive way?
We're a new generation of travelers, more aware of our environmental impact and more keen to experience remote destinations in their 'natural' setting.
And yet...it seems that without proper government & international regulation, any company or hotel or travel agent can slap the word 'eco-friendly' on their product and attempt to lure unsuspecting tourists in.
So, how do we know what 'green' travel really is?- Making educated choices that minimize negative environmental impact: choose destinations or tours that operate with a philosophy of conservation and education, apply 'Leave No Trace' principles, try to minimize energy consumption, be aware of where resources are coming from and where the waste goes at the end of the day.
- Respecting the locals: be polite and minimizing negative cultural generalizations (i.e. the English drink too much, Americans are ignorant, the French are stuck up, etc...)
- Learning the local customs and culture: learn the language, dress appropriately (look to the locals for cues), read up on the religions, holy places and local customs (are there social taboos, like the placement of feet in Asia, to be aware of?)
- Responsible purchasing: support local businesses, buy local products directly from artisans (avoid souvenirs made in China), avoid souvenirs made from animal products, corals or shells, eat local foods supporting local farmers, hire local tour guides.
- Health & hygiene: pay attention to the chemicals used in your water bottles, shampoos or laundry detergents, use biodegradable soaps when available. Awareness will help to minimize toxic waste in the region you're visiting.
- Before you go, unplug everything in your house. Many electronics use a high amount of 'vampire energy', meaning they consume energy even when on stand-by or plugged in (TVs and microwaves for example.)
- Use public transportation in country whenever possible.
- Don't eat at international chains like Starbucks or McDonald's, explore and experiment in local markets and eateries.
- Use rechargeable gadgets, avoid single-use or disposable products (i.e. batteries, disposable hand wipes)
- Don't throw away electronics when they malfunction. Batteries contain toxic materials that need to be recycled properly when you return home.
- Travel with a stainless steel water bottle and refill as you go, since many developing countries lack adequate recycling infrastructure.
- Brochures and maps provided by hotels or travel agents can be returned if kept in good condition.
- Travel with a tote bag, something of durable fabric to avoid using plastic.
- Use your own soap and washing liquids, since the disposable ones in hotels are wasteful.
- Turn off all electric devices when leaving your hotel room.
- If your hotel does not recycle or dispose of rubbish responsible, write a comment in the 'comments card' since hotel reps and managers do read them.
- "Do Not Disturb": tell the hotel staff you don't need your room cleaned every day. This saves energy from vacuuming and reduces toxic waste from using chemical cleaners. Cut down on water waste by re-using towels and linens.
- Know your carbon footprint, and make a financial donation to help reduce the greenhouse gases while you're away. Use Sustainable Tourism International's Carbon Calculator and help support projects investing in wind energy, tree planting, and many more examples here.
- Keep the window closed during a daytime flight, this reduces the energy needed to keep the plane cool.
- Choose a biodegradable sunscreen, one that's reef friendly and won't bleach the corals.
- Keep to the hiking trails and stay off the buds and plants. (At high altitudes native flora is slow-growing and can take years to properly regenerate.)
- Never feed the wildlife, and avoid adventure operators who offer up-close and personal encounters with wildlife that are not in the field of conservation, internationally recognized or reputable.
- Don't support the wildlife trade, avoid buying products made from threatened or endangered wildlife. Buyer Beware and WWF's Souvenir Guide are great resource for research into the area you're traveling to.
- Stay in home stays or small guesthouses when available, this will allow you more intimate interaction with the locals and support small family businesses.
- Volunteer while you're abroad. There's no better way to interact and learn from the local culture and customs, and your work will be a direct contribution to something positive--whether you're interested in community development, wildlife conservation, or environmental care, you'll find millions of volunteer organizations eager to have you. (Some example resources: Woofing organic farming, International Student Volunteers, Projects Abroad, Neohumanism Volunteering.)
Resources to continue reading up on 'Green Travel'...
World Wildlife Foundation: for travel tips check out their travel blog; information about conservation projects worldwide.
Go Travel Green: inspiration, trip recommendations, and tips for the eco-conscious traveler.