Hello! My name is Stefanie and I live in Thailand. I am recently married to a Thai national and am currently managing my husband's rock climbing business. I have fulfilled my greatest dreams abroad, and currently live in Paradise: also known as Railay Beach! This blog shares stories, advice, anecdotes and hard-learned lessons from my years abroad.
25.10.10
Mental Patients Sent To Backpacker Hostels
27.9.10
Little Girls Drive Big Machines, Western Australia
Days in and out while working at the Palms Galore Nursery in Perth. The men there are pretty useless, so it's up to us...the little girls...to handle the big machines!
Had a great last day of work today, I probably spent 5 or 6 hours just loading and unloading massive palm trees with Liz all over the nursery.
- Learn to drive tractor---CHECK
- Learn to drive Bobcat---CHECK
- Learn to drive Ultimate Demolishing Bulldozer (aka Home Destroyers!)---...someday soon...
24.9.10
Adventures in Western Australia, Perth & Pinnacles
There's actually routine in my life again. Wake up at 7.30 am, brekkie of muesli and yogurt, work at the nursery, come home, make coffee, shower, walk the dogs, make dinner, read book, go to bed. Brilliant.
How to Order a Coffee in Australia
Traveling to Australia (or New Zealand) soon? Let me spare you 3 agonizing weeks of confusion and frustration and break down the coffee culture for you...It's all espresso down under!
I'll never forget walking in to my first coffee shop after touching down in Sydney last April. It was Gloria Jeans, the primo coffee chain I was told.
I am a proud coffee enthusiast and I've never once walked into a coffee shop, not knowing how to order...and yet, here I was, for the first time a coffee-ignorante!
...Flat White, or a Long Black, or how about a Short Black instead... what?!
I walked up to the barista and asked for a 'regular coffee'...
Barista--"White coffee?"
Me--"What does that mean?"
Barista--"...White...Milk...You're American, right?"
Shite! After only a few hours I had already been called out as a dumb tourist!
It took me ages to find someone with enough time to sit down and explain the coffees to me...After the 10th time asking for a 'traditional American coffee', the owner of a mom and pop's coffee shop tilted his head and asked me to take a seat. I was so pissed off! I thought he was dismissing me, but instead he just winked and handed me a menu and promised to come sit with me.
15 minutes later he showed up with 3 different coffees and gave me a personal 'coffee tasting session.' It was brilliant! After 6 months traveling through America he completely understood why I was so confused in the first place.
We're used to drip brew, or percolated coffee which means slow pouring of boiling hot water onto ground beans...The Aussies first developed their coffee culture from the Italian immigrants in the 19th century, so it's all espresso culture. Every thing on a menu will be some variation of an espresso, which means quick brew under high pressures.
Read more about the difference between Espresso and Drip Coffee here...
So here you go, the perfect guide to spare you the same embarrassment next time you find yourself in a coffee shop 'Down Under!'
Here are your options off a menu in a typical Australian coffee shop:
- Flat White: the most basic/popular drink of choice = espresso with steamed milk.
- Long Black: espresso & hot water makes a steaming mug of 'black coffee' (stronger than a flat white, but ask for milk on the side if you need a little 'white.')
- Short Black: espresso only in a small glass
- Macchiato: espresso & a spoon of milk froth
- Latte: espresso & steamed milk & froth
- Mocha: basically a latte with a sprinkle of chocolate powder
- Cappuccino: 1/3rd espresso, 1/3rd steamed milk, 1/3rd froth
Americans everywhere on the road, go forth and prosper!

23.9.10
Stumbling Through Wine Tours--Adelaide, South Australia
Read along with some Australian music I'm listening to: "Roll Away Your Stone"- Mumford & Sons
Adelaide, Barossa Wine Valley Tour..."really how many times can you hear the word 'cock' in your tour guide's commentary and not giggle..."
After days of driving I was looking forward to a break from all the sightseeing and traveling. I was looking forward to a sleep in and a casual wander around the city...so naturally, that's exactly what did NOT happen.
I'm staying at the Adelaide YHA in a 5 bed dorm with my friends traveling from Melbourne--Frenchie (Aurelian), the Canadian (Ludmilla) and the UK couple (Jack and Kelly.)
The YHA set up here is pretty nice and the facilities are brand spanking new and shiny which makes communal showering much less depressing! I barely had time to drop my bag when the UK couple (from here on I will refer to them as 'people of motherland') screamed bloody murder for me to get my butt in the travel lounge. Apparently they needed me to cough up $60 since tomorrow we were leaving for a wine tour at 7.30 am...
Me--"Excuse me? What time did you say the tour was leaving?"
Pomies--"Oh come off it Stef, you know you're coming out with us! What else have you got on for tomorrow?"
Me--"I have a date with my pillow in the morning, and I'm poor."
Pomies-- "Drunk by 10 am, meals and snacks included."
Me--"Right, I'm sold."
So, we were off in the morning. Destination: Barossa Wine Valley, where apparently the finest wines in all of Australia are produced.
I was skeptical at first, I mean come on! South Australia is the driest state in the driest country in the world and it's supposed to be pumping out fine wines? Let me tell you, 6 wineries later and not in the least bit sober or coherent , I can admit I was dead wrong!
Before pulling into the first winery our driver/guide pulled over the side of the road to look us over, very carefully...
Driver--"Since you guys look like wine touring 'beginners' I'd like to take a moment to teach you the basics for a proper wine tasting..."
We smiled politely, pretended not to be highly offended and listened to him make a complete fool of himself as he did every pretentious thing you could do to an imaginary glass or wine. He checked the light for clarity, he swirled the glass, and he inhaled the imaginary grapes like it was his last dying breath. He didn't once crack a smile when the Aussie in the back yelled out 'Just bloody skull it!'
I was staring out the window, daydreaming and slowly realizing that we were on a one lane road that was inexplicably faced with two way traffic... The car heading towards us had to swerve onto the grass to avoid us, and I swear I saw a shaking fist...
I tuned back to the bus and inappropriately burst out laughing when I heard the Aussie grandma shut the driver up, catching a really scary look from the driver... I stayed as far away from him as I could for the rest of the day.
At that point we were stumbling into the wineries and serving ourselves. We managed to convince the pourers to open up the good stock, bottles ranging in the $100 and up stock! In between winery 5 and 6, the driver found us and leaned in gently to tell us we were supposed to spit the wine out after sipping it. I politely nodded my head and scooted away down the bar, laughing...right, like I paid $60 to spit out my wine! Who is she kidding?! (The driver was in fact male, but for some reason in my journal notes I kept referring to him as a 'she...')
Let me save you the embarrassment now and reassure you that the Langley name was not tarnished! I was able to respectfully walk (drag?) myself home at the end of the tour, and as far as memory and photo card memory shows we were all very civilized and well behaved.
And if not, well it was a damn good day anyways!
Our lunch was in an interesting town called Nuriootpa (no I'm not drunk, that's the correct spelling.) I was craving carbs to clear my head and somehow settled on a kangaroo steak...gamey but damn tastey!
The best part of this town was what the waiter told me about the view from my window. The highschool next door is a wine-producing school! They have an entire class dedicated to wine-making! The kids can't even drink their own stock; it's bottled and sold to the local markets and the teachers get routinely smashed when grading terms come around. Aha, only in Australia!
Now, a wine list please. Check your local liquor stores and get in on the action! Here's a few labels and my favorite selections:
- Wolf Blaas Gold Label: Rieslings, Roses, Shiraz
- Simpatico Wines: Sparkling Viognier, Cab Sauvignon
- Grant Burge: Moscato Frizzante, Miamba Shiraz, Lily Farm Frontignac 2009
- Kies Barossa Valley: Klauber Block Shiraz, White Barossa
And Muscat...I was introduced to something truly spectacular: Muscat slushies. Stick a bottle of sweet muscat in the freezer and save it for a hot summer's day. When poured out it stays in slushie form and cools you to the core! Yummmmm.
Some extra fun bits about Barossa Valley: it's home to a massive wino-nudist colony; its social club is called the 'Cockatoo Club'; the locals' game of choice is 'shuttlecock'; and the vineyards are regularly 'cockled'....I have no idea what that last word means, but my guide said it with such pride I had to write it down!
...really, how many times can you hear the word 'cock' in your tour guide's commentary and not share a giggle with your mates???
21.9.10
Driving Across Australia (Part 2): Melbourne to Adelaide
Next along the way was a fantastic stretch of legs at the Otway Fly Tree Top Walk.
600 meters long, 45 meters high, trek through a cool climate rainforest and feel insignificant against the backdrop of Beech forest, Blackwood and Mountain Ash woods.
- The Australian Aboriginals are the oldest continuing living culture in the world. They are thought to have arrived nearly 60,000 years ago.
- Australia is a massive country with vastly different climates--depending on the climate aboriginals varied in clothing and dress, culture and lifestyle.
- At one time there were 100s of different communities scattered across the country with over 250 spoken languages.
- Despite the differences, all aboriginals date their origins back to Dreamtime. It's their belief about how the earth was made, naming ancestors with superpowers who carved the land, made the rivers and lakes, and guarded the natural phenomenon. Sacred places from these stories were identified to perform religious and spiritual ceremonies.
- Weapons for hunting included spears and boomerangs.
- Spiritural songs about their ancestors and Dreamtime are typically played on a didgeridoo .
- With the arrival of early English colonists, the aboriginal culture was too complex for them to understand. They were not a warrior culture (like the Maoris and Polynesians) & their weapons were no match for the muskets and gunpowder. Aboriginals were almost completely decimated through forced removal, disease and discrimination.
- At one time it was legal to kill an aboriginal if he/she was found on your land, and hunting parties were organized to kill off entire clans if they were found.
- In the 1900s laws were imposed to restrict the movements of the aboriginals, and from then on until the 1970's, states were allowed to remove children from their mothers if their fathers were suspected of being 'white.' This is known as the Stolen Generation.
- It wasn't until 1972 that they were granted the right to vote (the right to exist as fellow human beings in their own country) And today, there'a long road ahead for cultural integration. Land ownership is being passed back, apologies are being made by prime ministers (see Kevin Rudd's Apology), and racism is slowly but surely being weeded out of the school systems.
It's been particularly hard for me to get a grasp on the issues surrounding the aboriginal culture in today's Australia. The biggest block is simply because the locals don't want to talk about it. I think the generations of today don't know enough about the aboriginal culture to really speak on their behalf, and certainly the racism and accepted discrimination of their parents' time must have some lingering effects.
19.9.10
Melbourne--Less Shopping, More Penguins!
Melbourne & thoughts on the eco-friendliness of Phillip Island's Penguin Parade.
On the drives I've manged to spot wild koalas high up in the trees, but here at the centre was the first time I could get really close and personal with these beautiful creatures.
This sleeping giant's name is 'Bumby' and the most exciting part of his day happened when I was mere feet from him--he woke up, stretched, ate a eucalyptus leaf and then moved to another branch a few feet away to tuck in for another few hours napping. Wow.
- They're marsupials like kangaroos and wombats, meaning they carry their young in pouches
- They can only be found in Australia (naturally)
- "Koala" in Aboriginal language means 'no drink' which refers to these animals going for days without water, fully adapted to the Australian climate
- Koalas are very picky eaters. The Australian bush holds over 600 species of eucalyptus trees, and koalas will only eat about 120 of them. (Toxic for humans.)
- On average sleeps 19 hours a day in the fork of an eucalyptus tree.
- The first food a baby 'joey' koala will eat is its mother's shit. The koala requires a micro-organism to properly digest the eucalyptus leaves which can only be absorbed safely through it's mother's droppings.
- When koalas become stressed or worried about the loss of their homes they develop a disease we know as Chlaymidia...that's right koalas have STDs.
- According to Aussie high schoolers, there's a certain of eucalyptus tree that's toxic to the koala's brain. Some koalas become rabid and aggressive, and if a passerby gets too close to their tree they'll jump down and attack them trying to defend their territory. These are known as 'Drop Bears'.
Some more iconic wildlife I came across on Phillip Island, the majestic kingfisher Kookaburra and the Cape Barren Goose.
- The Little Penguin is born in a sand burrow but spends a great part of its life out at sea. They can go for weeks on end at sea and come back when they choose to, to their burrows. They actually sleep while they're at sea, dozing as they float on the surface.
- They always come back to the place they were born. Whatever burrow they are born into, they must return to to continue their breeding cycle.
I stayed well into the darkness and even followed some of these little guys to their young chicks in the burrows (keeping a responsible distance of course.) It was a night of absolute magic, and I left with an awesome high of being up close and personal with mother nature's secrets.
- The Penguin Parade, is it eco-friendly?
- The Koala centre and the Penguin Parade are full blown tourist facilities that include: gift shops, cafes, photo opportunities and information. But they are government run research facilties as well, non-profit organizations not in the game for commercial gain, but for educational outreach and support to continue the conservation initiatives.
- Thousands of people all year round come through from Melbourne to experience the Penguin Parade, and it can feel like a commercial trap with all the buses, crowds, and screaming children. But I left feeling good with the organization I chose to support: because in the end the experience wasn't about making the penguins accessible to us, but for us to be accessible to the penguins.
- Everything: every measure, every path way, every light post, was strategically placed and guarded to not interrupt the daily routine of these little penguins. Tourists are banned from taking photos so the flash doesn't interrupt the natural scenery, and the penguins honestly seem to ignore our very presence.
- There's extensive information about behavior and life cycles that's readily available in a child approved education centre, and under cover guides (who are scientists)constantly apprehending naughty tourists trying to break the rules.
- The Phillip Island Nature Park has won countless awards for eco-tourism and conservation efforts and any tour you book from Melbourne will have to adhere to their strict guidelines and rules for participating. So, in the end I'm very happy with how I chose to spend my day today!
