Guest Blogger: Mom Visits Cambodia

As promised, Mom's third (and final) blog post about her recent visit to Thailand; this story covers our last week together, traveling to ancient temples in Siem Reap, Cambodia. 
-Stefanie

The flight into Siem Reap is gorgeous, green fields, laid out in perfect geometry, thatched buildings raised on poles dotting the landscape, forests on hillsides beyond the fields. For this plane ride we had perfect, clear weather for a perfect ride and landing. The airport is modern and spotless, tourists from every nationality imaginable stood in line with us to get the tourist visa. We took a taxi to our hotel which was about a 20 minute ride on a wide highway with practically no traffic. Next time, Estefania, we’ll take a Cambodian tuk tuk from the airport, just like we did on the way back to our flight back to Bangkok.

The Angkoriana Hotel was perfect! Its architecture is Khmer inspired, I think, with the use of rich woods throughout. I especially liked the carved 10 foot high room doors and the rich wooden staircase and carved banister that took us up to our room on the second floor. Estefania, you make the best traveling arrangements!

From that moment on, all our transportation needs were on tuk tuk, Cambodian style, nothing fancy, just a motorcycle pulling a little wagon with 2 tiny bench seats and a canvas roof – but absolutely perfect.

We tuk tuked down the Charles de Gaulle Boulevard at sunset towards the center of town and to its night markets and restaurants. The ride on the wide boulevard bordered by giant overhanging trees, the river on the left, motor bikes, tuk tuks, a few cars and trucks sharing the road was…..again……perfect. I followed Stef’s lead as we strolled through the streets and bazaars and ended up going up a couple of flights of stairs to an outdoor restaurant where I left all the ordering to Stef. Comida super deliciosa! I’m not very good as describing flavors and tastes, but I can say that Cambodian Kmer food is even spicier than Thai! Ouch!

 We planned on investigating the temples for two days, so from the hotel we hired a Cambodian tour guide. His name was Dom and we spent 2 days in his company. We 3 climbed into a tuk tuk at the hotel and he began laying out the itinerary for the first day. He was very nice and knowledgeable and after guiding us to the park entrance (which had incredibly long lines of tourists) he began to explain as much as he could about the carvings, the entrances, the sculptures, the temple levels, the Hindu and Buddhist stories, and the forest that surrounds Angkor.

We avoided the huge crowds as much as possible as we walked over causeways and climbed multi-chambered hallways all the while (for my part) gazing with awe at wall carvings and paintings, mythical Naga beasts and Apsara dancer sculptures, columns, lintels, vaulted rock ceilings, limestone, sandstone, imagining a kingdom of one million working on these gigantic monuments over eight hundred years ago. I’d go back in a heartbeat.  What a privilege, Stefanie, to be able to touch these same carvings with my own hands and climb a hundred narrow steps to view the expanse of this project with my own eyes! De veras, Stefanie, un muy profundo – graciassss!

 Enough, I think, the Angkoriana Hotel lobby with its rich wood columns and super throne like comfy sofas is making me forget that I will say good-bye to Estefania…….but hello to the rest of the family. Adios, but I really must follow through and plan my trip to the ancient monuments of Egypt with my fantastic travelling companion, Stef.

-Guest blogger: Cecilia Langley (Mom) 

Guest Blogger: Mom visits Thailand, Koh Lanta Paradise

It's taken weeks to get my mother to finish writing about her experiences traveling with me...but alas, the final two posts about our trip to the southern island Koh Lanta and Cambodia. Enjoy!
 - Stefanie

Querida familia y amistades:

So, the island beach days in Koh Lanta were amazing. But first we had to get there going via Kanchanaburi and Bangkok. Stef and I arrived in Kanchanaburi (Bridge over River Kwai city) after another kind of scary bus ride down from the mountains of Sanghkla. I can’t describe the bus ride’s views from their big windows because the road turns so often: first it’s a lake, then it’s a huge forest scraping (almost) the sides of the bus, then it’s a cluster of roadside stands selling mango, pineapple. And the bus drivers OWN the very narrow road, they go at outrageous speeds, swerve around cars on curves and glue their hands to the horn to make cars move out of their way.  Estefania, I don’t know how you have done this more than once in your life! 

We spent the afternoon walking to the bridge on the river, trying to get service on a floating restaurant – the waiters and waitresses totally ignored us, but at least we got to feel the super swift  river current rushing underneath the barge, right, Stef?  Steve has always been a fan of the 1957 WWII movie so we shopped for postcards, walked the still functioning railway bridge, evaded large groups of tourists from all over Asia and Europe, took pics, read the placards that described the unimaginable human suffering of the forced laborers, the usual tourist stuff.  

I always felt so far away from home and was constantly seeing myself clear across the other side of the globe, but not so for Stef.  Before sitting down to the most delicious meal of rice, Thai omelet and Thai sweet and sour pork and veggies in a restaurant right by the bridge, the owner of the restaurant came up to Stef to greet her like an old friend and I was once again introduced as “my mom”. She’s been there quite a few times with her student groups. 

We walked back to our hotel, about 15 minutes and were up the next morning ready to catch a tuk tuk to the bus station. We couldn’t get tickets on the “big” bus and ended up in a small van, Stef sat in the third row between two guys, I was stuck in the middle next to an older gentleman and his 2 large bundles, as the ride progressed he gradually took up more and more of the shared seat…………I know it’s because he fell asleep and raised his feet onto the seat so he could cushion his shoulder against the window. Stef’s fellow passengers got off several stops before Bangkok, so she was really quite comfy, what luck! This time, from the bus station in Bangkok we took a taxi to a hotel near the airport. Stef actually went out to eat, I crashed. 

Next day….Air Asia to Krabi and then a van ride and 2 ferries to the southern part of the island of Koh Lanta. Paradise, long beach, soft sand, beautiful view of the ocean and the mountain rainforest behind us. Our hotel room was a little bungalow with covered porch and ocean view. Every day we woke up to “surfy” sounds and chirping birds.  Actually I did spend an insane amount of time just lounging on our front door porch, drink in hand, kindle going, just listening, reading and thinking. 

Our morning routine included walking a few meters to coffee and breakfast in the outdoor area overlooking the pool and sea. We were always surrounded by very agreeable Swedish family groups of abuelos, their children and the grand kids. Perfect for an old abuela like me. Dios mIo! I’m getting to be such an old something or other, agreeable is just another word for kind of quiet, relaxed, no shouting and children who never complained or whined. We found out later that the Swedish International School was right next door.  I swam in the ocean at least twice a day, went into the pool daily, the weather was HOT but one afternoon it rained and the sound was magical and the smells beautiful – I watched this from the porch, of course. This part of the Andaman Sea is hard packed (but not too hard) reddish sand. 

 You can walk out, seems like forever, and never lose touch with the sandy bottom. The water is clear and just perfect. No reef nearby or animals to see but perfect for swimming and floating while gazing at the rocky islands across the horizon. Stef and I walked down the beach our first day after we unpacked and went swimming, found a pair of the reclining sofa chairs with triangular pillows that seem to cover Thai’s beaches, ordered our drinks and just watched the sunset. Stef, this is a bit much! Too many mother-daughter moments, ha! We took pictures of the food, Stef took over the ordering, but one night we had Hawaiian pizza, the pineapple in this area of the world is SO sweet. 

 Queen happened to be on the same island staying in the northern part with 2 Australian friends.Queen had wheels! She picked us up and went from the southernmost point of the island to the northernmost. We had lunch at a hillside restaurant looking down a most amazing ocean view – Queen, thanks again for the lunch but that was supposed to be my treat! Queen and Stef have known each other for years, and their conversation reflects that. They gossip and tease and cavort as only 2 sisters can! Thank you, Queen for being such a good friend to my little “bebe”. We stopped again in Old Town Lanta and did a little strolling and peering into stalls and stores. Stef claims that the statue of the goddess (Chinese Buddha of Mercy) we saw in the Chinese stores is the same one I have at home, but the bottom of mine says “porcelana de Cuernavaca, Mexico” although she is holding a lotus flower in her hand and appears to be standing on a pedestal surrounded by lotus.

  Then we took off again on the scenic route toward a Sea Gypsy village. We took pics, of course, but the atmosphere was just so nice being with my 2 (forgive me Queen, but I had to “adopt” you) girls. Of course, their love for animals or anything in need of help had to be a part of their day. Just as we got in the car, both Queen and Stef literally bolted out of the car in an attempt to rescue a little dog that was on the side of the road with its head stuck in something. I, of course, was “muy miedosa” and could only hope that the dog hadn’t been tied up because it was sick or rabid. Well, the village was quiet and though there were some people about, the atmosphere was very laid back. Queen went on to knock on a few houses to inquire of the owners of the dog, then came back when she couldn’t find answers. It turns out that the silly puppy, whose mother we realized was lying down in the shade just on the other side of the road, was just too dumb to figure out a way to loosen the can around its snout. Stef and Queen let it go and waving its tail it sauntered off to drink some water next to its mama. We had a good laugh about that one! Poor Queen, she ended up driving all day as she brought us back to our hotel and later that night picked us up to take us to the north again to dine at a gorgeous hotel where Queen,  and her friends were staying.

Beautiful surroundings, beautiful sunset, the girls jumping up and posing for action photos with the ocean behind them, it was fun! I don’t know about you, nignas, but I think the honeymooning couple next to our table weren't in the mood for our laughing! Too bad, the food was good, we all tasted each other’s choices, and I hope that Queen's friends do continue to be interested in Baan Unrak and somehow sponsor a child. A few hours later, Queen drove us back south, again. Graciasss, Queen you have a very generous spirit. Thank you for sharing your beautiful country with us. Besos y abrazos!

Forward a couple of days, lying on the beach, eating delicious food, just relaxing. Then, back to a van, waited in line to cross from island to island on 2 ferries, took the four lane highway to Krabi Airport (it was packed, jammed with tourists!) and back to Bangkok. Chris and Chas, I agree with Stef that this is the island to visit on your next honeymoon. You can lounge but also party, snorkel, whatever. The plane ride from Krabi to Bangkok was super scary. We roller coastered through a thunderstorm. I don’t know what Stefanie did, but I just closed my eyes during the entire flight. Tight!

Retired after 37 years as an educator and what a ride it’s been! It’s true that when you look back all you remember are the kids and the wonderful aha moments (some of them with parents!) You have to be a teacher to really understand. After my first year of teaching in Texas, when I was about to decide to change to another profession, my sister Rocio and I took a trip to Southeast Asia. It was loads of fun and Rocio and I still laugh about “the beautiful statue you must buy, ONLY THE BEST PRICE FOR YOU! … the price kept going lower and lower the longer we walked”. 

 But, Angkor Wat was on the itinerary and suddenly cancelled due to Khmer Rouge hostilities. I am still fascinated by the ancients and their buildings and loved teaching about them, so this trip I had to come to Siem Reap for the temples of Angkor, especially the biggest of them in the whole world, Angkor Wat...

-Guest Blog post written by: Cecilia Langley (Mom) 

Stay tuned for Mom's next guest blog post: Siem Reap, Cambodia!

Not for me, but for my children...

Posing at Doi Suthep temple, the iconic landmark of Chiang Mai

Right now I feel like I have accomplished something great in my lifetime; at a time when every official said "No", I chose to follow my heart and do something crazy (slightly dangerous) driven by knowing the simple truth that it was the right and just thing to do...not for me, but for my children.

I don't want to get into too much detail here, but at the end of a long week of "No's" and "Never will non-Thai children travel freely in Thailand", I decided, with locked jaw and stubborn determination, to take a small group of children with me to Chiang Mai for one week of tourist holiday and educational fun.

I had full support from the Home (and founder) since she understood my frustration. "Stefanie, if I listened to everyone who told me "No" in this lifetime, I would not have the children I have today and I would not be who I am today..." I felt a surge of resistance and fight in my veins, something stronger than me that I never could imagine before....

getting chic haircuts for free thanks to Queen's friends

 We were invited by Lek, founder of Elephant Nature Park, to visit her elephant conservation project, and this has been a life's-dream accomplished for me...finally after years of thinking of (and fundraising for) this moment, I was able to get my kids to her park! They learned so much about elephant conservation, and the tears streaming down their cheeks when they heard some of the elephant stories makes me hopeful that one day they will look back and share how that educational experience impacted them.

 They had plenty of other great experiences: enjoying the hustle and bustle of a city (quite the shock compared to our dusty village); meeting new friends and smiling faces; exploring new sites (temples, waterfalls, national parks and botanical gardens to name a few); all the while experiencing what it truly feels like to travel  in their own country. They traveled by train for the first time in their lives, and they lived like kings and queens in a hotel resort (complete with swimming pool!); such luxury they never imagined for themselves having grown up in an environment where sleeping on the floor is all they've ever known.

exploring the jungle waterfalls outside of Chiang Mai city

 As far as I'm concerned, these kids are Thai. They have lived here for most of their young lives; they're enrolled in the Thai government school system; and they communicate freely in Thai with each other since it is the common language for each of them despite their ethnic backgrounds. They deserved this opportunity just as much as any other Thai national, and I intend on fighting every time someone tries to tell me "No" again.

These kids learned so much, and they met so many inspiring individuals (tour guides with similar backgrounds; founders of organizations fighting similar causes for Burmese minorities) and they learned so much about themselves too...I could see the little lights going off behind their eyes as they expressed dreams of studying in Chiang Mai, and pursuing higher education outside of our small village.

at Elephant Nature Park

First and foremost I have to thank TJ. He's only 15 years old, but he is the driving force behind this journey, since I  promised nearly 2 years ago to bring him to Chiang Mai. I'm so happy I could keep that promise.

Before we left Bangkok, I had a moment where fear overcame my senses...TJ responded to my fear, and in a teary mess he cried and begged me to go back home. I asked him why, and he said only that he didn't want anything bad to happen to me. "If something happens to you Stef, I will have no one again."

I looked him in the eyes and asked him "Do YOU still want to go?" His small nod was all I needed to tell him we were going and no one was going to stop us. After that all my fear melted away, because it had to. I found inner strength buried deep in my love for TJ, and I knew whatever the risk, this was likely to be his one and only opportunity to travel before he got too big for people to look the other way.

In the end, I did this all for him. I love him so much I'm willing to risk all for his happiness, now and forever. This kind of love is scary, and humbling. He's started calling me 'Mom' recently, and while my heart swells each and every time I'm also very aware that I am bound to him for the rest of his life...Our bond has stolen me.  I don't know how many more happy months (or years) we will have together in our Home, but I do know that even when he is old and married I will always be nearby, watching over him as long as he needs me to.

I have to thank all of my friends and family who pitched in for this adventure; I really could not have managed the costs of transport and accommodation on my own, so from the bottom of my heart I thank you all so much for putting your faith into my love for these kids.